Friday, January 23, 2015

Paul Smith

Sun. 09/14/2014.

Paul Smith.

Within the London Spring season there seems to be a lot of Allusions to Boyishness and Masculine Identity going round. Paul Smith's Spring 2015 opus is surely Inflected by this Boy/Girl Schism. Nothing new, Per Se, for Smith, But this season, the influence was somewhat coming on Strong. Smith also explored new territory, with a focus on more Neutral Colour than usual for him, especially for a Spring Collection.

Fringe was big on the scene and although it wasn't adding much, (it has appeared as something of a Touchstone this Spring) it did look Whimsical when needed. The Sport-ish elements in the collection, gave it more than it's fair share of Boyish Charm, Using this formula, the Collection did not have a Definitive Femme Streak running through it at all, even the more Frivolous of outfits were imbued with an almost Athletic and Garcon edge.

Where Smith most Closely approached something, Girly, it was in the truly most Stripped Bare, Spare Outfits... A Tan and White Striped Sleeveless V-neck top and Ticking Stripe Tailored slacks in Black and White was Sublimely easy, even though it had a Masculine Bent, It was still Femme in it's approach. Or a White Men's Shirt that was thrown Askew by having a Panel front in Solid while the rest of the shirt was Sheer combined with Grey and White Pajama style Pants. A Pretty paneled Floral print dress was about the most Femininely Extroverted piece in the entire collection.

Smith, As is his usual, Showed a Strong Point of View here, One that was Pointedly and Playfully Boyish. It provided a Very new look for him, where there has always been a Mannish style to his collections, it as usually subverted through a more feminine lens, Here, Not the case. It Gave a Great Punch to his usual suspects and made for Great Fashion. Smith has been in the business too long to rest on his Laurels and with this collection, shows that even Decades into a Long and Storied career, He can still Surprise!

That's All.


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