Antonio Berardi has never, It seemed. met an idea he could elaborately embellish upon. In the best of times, it gives his work a Decadent and Sensual sense of Largesse and Excess, most times, as in his Spring 2015 collection, It simply Drowned out what might have been something Quite Beautiful. Let'a just get this out of the way now as it is something that bears mentioning and has seemed to affect the Design world at large for Spring '15. When Berardi let the clothes do the talking and RESTRAINED Himself, He worked some magical pieces, But his Over Ambitious nature caused him to schlock on more and more until things looked Comic, And not in the good way!
Drawing as his touchstone the 2011 Movie "Flowers Of War" in Which Christian Bale plays a Pretend Priest and helps save a Gaggle Chinese Schoolgirls by hiding them in a Church... Berardi took some idealistic cues from the Setting and the Characters. To say it as an Unsuccessful pairing, Chinese Schoolgirls, Catholic Vestments and Church Ecclesiastia would be putting it mildly. Bishop Sleeves and "Kimono" Florals were just but a few of the follies found.
One other thing that served to make the collection suffer, Berardi's rather Quizzical Colour Choices... opening with Muted shades of Olive and Pink suffused with Sapphire was altogether Bizarre Entanglement. Then came a very Imperial shade of Orange paired with Chinese Lacquer Red and yet more of that Dull Pink... Pair this with the Infuriatingly Tricky shapes of the Jackets and the skirts that looked like Deflated Hot Air Balloons and it FAR TOO Quickly became Unbearable. By the way the Colour Choices continued... CEASELESSLY to become ever more Outlandish... simply take a look to see what I mean!
Not all was a Waste, A truly Ingenious Pantsuit in Pink, Plum and Orange Chine Silk was Cut to Utter, Dreamy Perfection... And that was about it! The Rest... A Unhinged, Disturbing Nightmare. Berardi has all the Skill in the world, but put to the uses he is continuing to exhibit with the last couple of Failures of Collections as this and Last Fall... One would never, Not in a Billion Years, be aware of such Fecund Talent. Berardi needs to set his Course to his True North and find what it is that he has lost, Before he is left Hopelessly Adrift.