Monday, January 5, 2015


Fri. 09/12/2014.

As a Heritage Brand on the London Fashion Scene, Like Burberry, Belstaff, Hunter... Daks is a Label of the Old Guard, and How it fits into the New World of Fashion is a delicate undertaking, One that can be Fraught with Pitfalls and Foibles. Does one remain strictly adherent to the House Heritage or do they adapt that history to what is Modern or even more so, what Modern means to that house. Fillipo Scuffi in his early days at Daks, followed a path that was an admixture of following the heritage and adapting the house codes to the time but under the umbrella of being Modern on the house's terms. 

Not Anymore. Scuffi has taken the house in His own direction, and showing what Modern means to him and dragging the house along Kicking and Screaming into the Future. It's a Ballsy and Bold Move, Thankfully, It Worked! It could have been Disastrous. And with any Radical move, as this was, there were stumbles, Yet on the Whole, It was Startlingly Successful! Scuffi was inspired by Ballet, Specifically "Swan Lake" and that would account for the Delightfully Sagacious use of Feathers in the collection. 

There was a Deft, Ethereal feeling to the collection that channeled at times Gianfranco Ferre, at times, McQueen, Though it only referenced them in passing, As a matter of Fact, It seemed Scuffi was envisaging an Image all his own, which was the best possible outcome of all this newness. An image that was Sensuous, but Ethereally so, Delicate and Light with an undercurrent of Strength. This dichotomy of Fragility and Sharpness was a potent mix, especially when realized in outfits like the Mauve Organza Hooded blouse and Mauve Trousers, or in a Liquid Sterling Gray Chiffon Caftan gown that rippled like waves on the shore, 

Also conveying this aesthetic, A Bibbed White Tuxedo shirt paired with Pegged Trousers fully covered in Feathers or the Version done in a Pencil Skirt covered in the Same Feathers and again matched with a Bib front Tuxedo Shirt. Also of Note, A Frothy confection of Pleated Mauve Chiffon worn with Mauve Shantung Pegged Bermudas on Maria Borges that was a Sensation if there ever was one! 

Scuffi has positioned himself with this collection as a Designer willing to throw Caution to the Four Winds and to be one to watch in the future. With this kind of Zeal and Willingness to risk and Risk... BIG, he will have the International Press watching him for more of the same as he presented in this collection. Scuffi only has to have the Courage to continue in this Brazen way and Success Is sure to Follow! 

That's All.


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