It was Flat out Impossible to define whether Marc Jacobs was being Serious or Whimsical in his Spring 2015 treatise. There was a Queer Gaiety to the clothes that was oddly offset by the Militaristic accents. Conversely, The Military ideas were given Contrapuntal embellishment of Geegaw sized Cabochons and Beading which further confused Matters. The absurd part, that in Jacobs formidable hands, it all gelled into a cohesive idea that was frankly, Stunning!
With all the Military influences running through this collection and many others this season, it would be easy to err on the side of the Familiar and Redundant... NEVER Let it be said that Marc Jacobs is Familiar OR Redundant. His was a New, Fresh take on Military, given that it was taken into realms that were heretofore undreamed before. As with all Jacobs-ian Epics, There was SO MUCH to Digest in this Presentation that one was literally overwhelmed by ideas and choices. Sometimes one became so swamped that things got murky, Blissfully, Jacobs honed in on what he was trying to achieve with such Sniper Sure accuracy that he saved the show from being Abstruse!
There was something disconcertingly Sad and Wistful about the presentation, With the Monolithic gigantic Pink House set Smack-Dab in the middle of the runway, and the models Circling round it, Like Ghosts of some war past come home to roost, with their Copycat Bowl cut shags and the peculiarly evocative music that seemed from some Alien Carnival... It was a Physical Gut Punch that made the clothes so much more than their Plain Visages would suggest!
Jacobs started with outfits that were the vision of Austere. Detail-less outfits inspired by Trenches began with just hidden pockets that were obscured by the pleats in the full skirts of the bubble shaped dresses, then transmuted into More militaristic details and oversized buttons, however still hovering firmly in the pastures of the Unembellished. Then the Buttons multiplied, showing up in droves, along with circular Air holes and and Gusset pockets, Epaulets, and Web Belts.
Next came rounded Cabochon Beads that began to Proliferate on the outfits and Patchwork insinuated itself into the mix as well as Passementerie, Coalescing into an Eclectic Whole that was Strange and Wonderful. Jacobs broached such new territory with this collection that one could not be forcibly changed by experiencing it. This was, more so than any of Jacobs collections, one that will stick in the memory and the heart. It was an emotionally Extravagant Masterpiece that was Stocked with Memorable and Timeless Clothes. Jacobs Proved he is at the top of his game with this Spellbinding and Moving Collection. It is one that will stay with you long after the weather has changed and one is looking forward to Sweaters and Coats! This is a Collection that will change Hearts, as well as Closets!