Urban Street Art. It was a Stepping off point for Donna Karan and it bought a Eclectic and Electric sense of Immediacy to Karan's Spring 2015 Treatise. Was it a good thing... Well, Yes and No. Bringing a fresh take on the Donna Karan Vocabulary was a good thing, but in the end, the Street Graffiti Prints were Dizzyingly overwrought at times and Were far too Busy for the eye to comprehend in their Exuberant entirety.
It also, in the most dedicated sense, made one Wantonly long for the days of Yore when Karan Seduced woman of the world with her Slinky, Sexy, Sensual Womanly Wares that were made for the Modern woman to function in the Urban Jungle like the Queen of the Steel and Concrete Savannah that is any Major City On the face of the Globe. When Karan was in her flowering prime... her clothes were like Fashion Crack, they were Irresistible and Exalted Womankind... this Schlock that she has been slopping forth in the last decade or so, Crunchy, Bohemian, Artistic, Hippie Moderne Crap has taken wing in her heart and seems to show no signs of Abating, which is Disheartening.
Karan had a Field day with Fullness and Lingere styles, from Wraparound Bra tops to Wide floating skirts paired with more wrap tops that alluded to the Ballet Dancer motif that has been popping up hither and yon this season. This Ballet sensibility provided some of the more Romantic notions to the show that had a more Rigid spine because of all of the Graffiti prints and Molded to the Body Silhouettes. This collection, Actually, had a more Earthbound appeal of the City than Karan's more Esoteric recent Dalliances, and that made it more Tolerable, Because if felt like Karan was moving in her old Circles again.
Karan was at her best when she was Amping up the Sensuality by actually simplifying, a pair of Buttonless Shirtwaist dresses in Carmine and Spearmint green were Wonderfully easy, but secretly Sexy. Karan has also, always been the Mistress of Jersey, Rivaling the mastery of Halston himself, and this collection was no less a exhibition of her Protean Skills with the material. One in Black Chiffon Jersey on Joshephine Le Tutour was SCANDALOUSLY Erotic and Chic in an almost YSL kind of way, though Yves would never be so Brazen in Audacity! Another in Khaki was More Quietly Steamy,
The collection was Effusively Feminine with a Strong Backbone running through it that made this collection one of the better goings for Karan. It was surprising in it's Artistic Viscerality and was showing Donna in her best mode. One can only hope this points her back in the direction of her Truest self, the Karan of the 90's where she commanded the attention of all the women of the world, Including the Bohemian Earth Mother clan she has seemed to focus her attentions on as of late. Even a Boho Hippy sometimes wants a Moment to be a Fierce, Take No Shit, Boss Ass Bitch. And That was Donna's Wheelhouse back in the day... Dipped in a Healthy Varnish of Sex, Too... Mind You...!