Monday, July 28, 2014

Christian Siriano.

Sat. 02/08/2014.

Christian Siriano.

It's a Rich Vein to mine, Irving and Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn. VERY Rich, indeed. As anyone who is Vaguely aware of or interested in The Greatest of the Greats of Fashion, these two iconic Names are right up there with Chanel, Dior, YSL, Vionnet, Avedon, Vreeland, The Luminaries! It's a ballsy move to try and Conjure those two Perfectly Matched Firebrands... But would certainly make for fascinating Fashion! That was the Starting Point for Christian Siriano for Fall 2014.

This inspiration can pose tricky problems for the simple fact that the clothes can easily develop into Costume and in a certain sense, they did. The Problem... Siriano is in a sense the Spiritual Twin of Zac Posen. Both are Wizards with Fabric manipulation and Creating shape in the most Sculptural of ways, and in saying that, both are prone to Extremes. Those extremes at times can get the best of both designers and blur the innate Purity and Brilliance of their work as they get caught up in the Majesty of their own Design Aesthetic.

After a particularly Strong Spring collection, Siriano's Fall Collection was Perhaps Stronger, but also far more uneven. The affectation of Fonssagrives-Penn was Captured Down Pat, and lent a magnificent Old World Elegance and Gravitas to the clothes. As the show continued though, that very same Gravitas began to work against the clothes.

In the early moments of the Show, The Vibe was Strong and looked Deeply Appealing. A pair of Cocoon Coats in Fir Green and Plum Purple Mohair were Strong and Retro while looking up-to-the-minute. A Tulip Hem wrap Dress at Exit No. 13 was Hella Sexy but in a Smouldering Sort of way and was Cut to PERFECTION! A Strapless White Wiggle Dress at Exit No. 17 with a fold over cuff at the top of the bust was channeling Severe, but not Austere!

By the halfway point though the Theme had overtaken the clothes and they began to become Leaden and Overwrought with Overdesign, Weighed down. A swirling Marble Print Lame fabric was a Bad Choice, mainly because, it looked Cheap. In Purple it looked Horribly Tacky, and should have been stricken from the Collection. It added nothing, in fact, It detracted in an almost Perilous Way!

One last Sticking Point... Why Design a MASTERPIECE Of Couture Showmanship as The Black Gown at Exit No. 40 which was Shockingly Marvellous, and then end the show with the piece that he did which was unflattering in countless ways...??? It was Bewildering! Siriano made quite the impression with this collection, It was in places, Flawless. In other places, Confusing! One can only hope in the next iteration Siriano will edit a little more Strictly and Keep the Excesses reigned in. He made his name in Glorious Excess, But now needs to Temper that with Keener Attention to the Larger Picture!

That's All.


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