Thursday, July 3, 2014


Thurs. 02/06/2014.

Stuart Vevers' Launch RTW collection for the Venerable Leather goods house of Coach for Fall 2014 was Brief and Compact and truly said a Whole Lot with Very Little. 19 "Exits" staged in Tableau form, rather than a full show proper worked for this Initial outing for the Accessories house. Necessitated upon the leaving of House Genius Reed Krakoff who turned the house around and into one of the Mega-Power brands of accessories, The house knew it needed to redefine itself and in the wake of Krakoff's exit, perhaps match him at his own game now that Krakoff's own business is beginning to be seen as a Major Player in the NY Fashion Arena.

So, In comes Vevers, Fresh from reanimating Loewe, ANOTHER venerable Leather Accessories house (this one in Spain) to Zhuzh up the Beast that is Coach, which had become sadly, A little Safe and Stale. Mainly the reasoning was to Elevate the house beyond the Niche that has become readily filled by the likes of Michael Kors and Tory Burch... Handbag Dominance! Those two labels have begun to have a Stranglehold on the Moderate Luxury price point handbag and in more than one way, have edged out Coach, which admittedly started the whole ball rolling in that area. But now, Coach wants to push further into the Luxury Market and tap into the cache of a more Upmarket handbag that is dominated by the Ubiquitous likes of Marc Jacobs, Gucci and Louis Vuitton...

However, to get such attention, Coach was going to have to wade into the same waters that these houses started in, kind of a reverse path, RTW. They want to be taken seriously, they have to act seriously. So, Act they did. Krakoff's departure facilitated the ideal climate to flourish in... New Blood in, Old Blood out and let's see what the result will be. From my perch, it looks pretty damn Fine! Vevers did not seek to reinvent the wheel, he didn't even seek to shout his arrival... he Calmly, Cooly presented a Surprisingly Bold and Extrovert collection that had none of the Peacock attitude about it. The clothes Vevers presented would fit in any Modern, Urban Woman's closet and look Up-To-Date, Fresh and work with what is already there, they also will not simply fade into the background. These are clothes that will be noticed but won't make you a Spectacle.

Ok, Now to the Clothes. Treading a line somewhere between Luxe Deer Hunter and City Utilitarian provided a Fertile ground for some Sharp, Distinctive pieces. Cozy and Sporty were watchwords and all that overblown Houndstooth in the opening looks looked Amazingly fresh in the Rich Fall palette. Rust and Ochre and Burnt Orange surely spoke in an Autumnal voice (Especially Fine at Look No. 3 in a Burnt Orange hooded toggle coat and a Houndstooth skirt in the same shade mixed with Black)

An Arts-And-Crafty Mixed Media Dress at Look No. 6 on Malaika Firth was whimsical and a little folkloric but also had a bit of Marcia Brady in it (in an entirely good way) While an Alabaster Shearling coat at Look No. 9 was giving Great Understated Luxe! Look No. 14 was also speaking Covet in a Bonded Leather coat in Black with clasp closures on Tilda Lindstam and will probably be one of those pieces that most folk won't even begin to see because it will be on such a long wait list. I smell Sell Out on that Piece!

Vevers Debuted Not only a Forward Thinking collection for Coach, but immense Confidence and Knack for getting a message across Powerfully and Quickly. It seems he has the tools to take Coach where it wants to go and Beyond. I, For one, am Happy to go along with him on the ride!

That's All.


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