I Like Jason Wu. A LOT. No, I LOVE Jason Wu! He has the potential, with his design aesthetic, to become his Generations Oscar De La Renta. However, that won't happen unless he Hones and Sharpens his Aesthetic and becomes sure of what he wants and who he IS as a Designer, for otherwise he shall continue to produce the uneven messes he has shown of late that are, putting it in the kindest form, Dismaying in the Utmost!
Perhaps there is some sort of Identity Crisis going on in Wu's Head? The Young Wu versus the Maturing Wu and what that ultimately means conceptual-wise as to what his Voice as a Designer IS? Is it the Firebrand of Quirky, Upscale Luxe of Olde or the New Madison Avenue Richesse Reserve trope/tripe he's been plying? The last Three collections (including Fall 2014) have been disappointing for various reasons, chief among them, they have found all the things that made Wu an industry darling, Failing him Mightily as he surges forth trying to adapt his ideas to new areas and genres and not quite finding his footing. It's been this tackling of a new persona that he has been trying to inject in his clothing that has lost all sense of connection to the True heart of what Makes Jason Wu... JASON WU! This is a Critical point for him to stop and evaluate what it is that matters most to him. If it his hallmarks, then focus on evolving those in new manners and not trying to become someone different, You have Hugo Boss for that now. If it IS about recalibration, then Wu needs to take pause and stock of what he is doing and find a better way to arrive at this destination!
Fall 2014 was another Head Scratcher... Less so than Last Fall, and less Awkward than Spring 2014, but confusing nonetheless! The opening Pantsuit didn't feel right, and didn't look all that right either. But, I fault Adriana Lima for that. She's EXQUISITE, but she's not, I Repeat, NOT a High End Model. She's too Curvy, Fleshy and Too, PRETTY, And that's It! She's nothing more than a pretty face! For Vicky's Secret... that's Awesome, for NY Fashion week, it's a Detriment. For NYFW, She's as bland as a Paper Grocery Bag. And it was Wu's HORRIBLE Mistake for casting her. It kinda of set the collection into the wrong gear as a start. It could also have been that the Blazer looked too tight and the pants too wide... A Mess.
Boiling things down to their essence, When Jason let his inner Wu do the talking, things were great, A Black Bustier and Pant Ensemble at Exit No. 5 was that inner voice speaking Loud and Clear. As was the Velvet Curve Hugger of a Dress on Feline model Pauline Hoarau that had a Sensual Sheen to it! A Bordeaux Coat that had something of a Mugler/Montana Vibe to it thrown over an Merlot Pantsuit at Exit No. 18 was also Killing it! There were further Hits and some Definite Misses... Someone PLEASE, For the Love of God and Creation Tell me what in Nature's Name was he trying to get at with those Long Drape front Skirts? Hideous doesn't come nearly close enough to describe them!
And one last Backhanded Criticism... As Lovely as they were, and Yes, they assuredly were Lovely, Why did Wu feel we needed to hop in Doc Brown's Delorean and Travel back to 1996 or so and Plunder Donna Karan's Workroom for her Devore Velvet castoffs? You cannot tell me you did not get a Demi Moore Flashback? I mean, Really Jason? It's Not as if Bias cut Devore Velvet Goddess gowns are the strict domain of Miss K, but you know you are going to run the risk of comparison when they are so BLATANTLY Similar! I don't Know, Perhaps it's Me! Put it this way, Gorgeous though they may have been... Donna Does it better! Let's Leave It At That!