Judging collections where designers show both Men and Women, Especially if the house started as a Menswear house, are sometimes a Mixed Bag. This is basically a problem to be faced in NY and not so much as abroad, during Fashion Week as so many houses present shows and many Men's Designers get the urge with all that Feminine Frippery floating about, that they should dip their Proverbial Toe in the water... How that works out is often... Problematic. In this milleu, coming from Men's to Women's design is Fraught with Peril, and Debut collections are more prone to the most difficulties. Duckie Brown's Designers Daniel Silver and Steven Cox traversed some of the Freshman foibles capably but suffered under the weight of their first Soujourn into Women's.
The Main Sticking Point... As Menswear designers, the pair have a Distinct Eccentric streak, one that is somewhat shocking even still, in the their Men's Designs, Trouble is, where that would have given their Women's ideas some Artistic Push, in trying to be less Extrovert, The Women's clothes were mundane by even the most lax of standards. Taken separately, there were attractive pieces, to be sure, thrown together the way that Silver and Cox pieced together those elements, lacked intensity or purpose. The first Women's Exit, A Patchwork Coat had the Vibrancy to bring the noise, Yet as the show progressed the compositions felt more Hausfrau than Haute.
Take the Baseball jacket and Warp print skirt at Exit No. 12, it exuded no Chicness or Sophistication nor did the few exits that followed. Things seemed to turn around and garner a little taste of Chic by Exit No. 25 and 26 which had a Disheveled Soignee attitude inherent in NY Fashion.
On the Men's Side the show was Quirky and Eccentric, As typical for the house and certainly raised the bar on their men's ideas. As for the Women's... it was a Tentative inroad into the tricky arena of Womenswear, But one that was not a sterling success. They have built some momentum with some pieces with serious Hangar appeal, but will have to concentrate harder come Spring 2015 with their efforts.