Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Helmut Lang.

Fri. 02/07/2014.

There was something Inherently and Fundamentally Shocking about the pairing of Subdued Camel and the most Searing shade of Lipstick Red which opened the Helmut Lang Fall 2014 Show that it caused an almost Physical Jolt. That it was on the Blonde Goddess Sasha Luss only Exacerbated the Shock factor, Her Luminous Paleness And Alien Beauty only Highlighting the Distracting Colour combination! It was an Instant Success!

Nicole and Michael Colovos produced a Collection for Fall 2014 that Buzzed with Sharp, Precise and Deftly Luxurious clothing. Nicole Colovos said that they wanted to "Flip on it's head" the "Flat, Clean, Crisp fabrics of Spring" and make something more Cozy and Textural. There was Texture Abound too, Fluffy, Nubby, Fuzzy, Nuzzly, Smooth. Also. keeping the Colour palette mainly Neutral with that Energetic blast of Red aided the collection in being grounded and rooted in reality.

Mohair provided most of the tactile interest and was as feathery as Swan's Down. Even the Suede and Leather pieces were imbued with Gravitas but not excessive weight. Witness the Dichotomy of a Mohair Funnel neck sweater tunic over a Wrapped Leather skirt both in Suntan at Exit No. 9 was Luxurious but for Everyday, not a Special occasion! Street Luxe! Bear witness as well to the Mountainous Fluffy Fur pullover at Exit No. 11 as well that just Screamed Cozy!

One of the hallmarks of the Helmut Lang DNA is Inventive and Sharp Tailoring, The Colovoses have taken that ball and ran Far and Deep with it, and their skills at cutting a Blazer is Legendary. This collection showed they had not left that facet of the Helmut Lang brand unpolished, but that it was being somewhat more sublimated for the sake of the overarching idea than highlighted. As the show progressed we were given some Intellectual flights of fancy that worked with the whole of the collection while also being individually separate feeling. The Prints based on pictures of Mars taken from the Rover splashed in Flame hues were a Spicy insert and gave a bit of Subverse whimsy to a collection that was otherwise Sober in it's Seriousness.

By the end, One was left with an Overwhelming sense that something very intense had been witnessed. These Clothes are not just Runway showpieces, these are the clothes that Women live their lives in or even more so, WANT to live their lives in. The Colovoses have Hit Pay Dirt with the line they have been walking as of late, Let's just hope they Continue Plowing that Furrow with the same success!

That's All.


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