Thursday, February 5, 2015

Costume National.

Thurs. 09/18/2014.

Costume National.

As motifs go, the 70's seems to be a recurring one in the Spring 2015 collections, Hitting especially hard in Milan. One cannot seem to turn around and not be assaulted with Fashion styled after the "Me" Decade. Ennio Capasa's take on this Leitmotif for his label, Costume National, seems like one of the more Original Variazionne. The requisite trademarks of the trend are represented here, TONS of Suede, Fringe for days, Studio 54/Halston-like Jerseys, Contrast Topstitching And Oh yes, Hot Pants!

Confining his palette to mainly Cacao Brown, Black, Tobacco, and Purple, Capasa hit that Nerve of the 70's pretty accurately with these shades, Interjecting only here and there a bit of Navy or Indigo or one Artistic Flourish of Robin's Egg Blue in a Suede Shorts/Zip Jacket Ensemble.

Capasa's Usual Off-Kilter, Modernist flair was sublimated through this Prism of the 70's and was actually to his benefit. Sometimes, Capasa's work for Costume National can be too Cool and Detached for many tastes... It kind of renders it Emotionless a lot of the time, Interesting, Yes. Exciting, in it's own way, Yes, Again. But also, Removed... A Resonding Yes! Here, there was a Sensuality and Frankness to the clothes that drew the onlooker into the world, even though that world has been exploited this season with Abandon, Capasa made his version look Mesmerizing in it's own way. If one needed proof, Take Exit No. 26 on Manuela Frey... A Belted Navy Topstitch Coat with Indigo Cropped Pants...

When Capasa ended the show with the best use of Fringe seen in Nigh on many a Year, The overall feeling left from the show was one of Tedium at the continuing reliance on the Decade that Gave us Disco, but that this interpolation was one of the most Creative of the season and Showed with great Facility why the Decade that was the 1970's is still such a Rich Vein to tap!

That's All.


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