By Now, Everyone knows the woes that have befallen the once Mighty Maison that is Jil Sander. It bears no extra repeating or rehashing, suffice it to say, that it's been A Rocky Road for the House. Exit Raf Simons, Enter Jil Sander. Exit Jil Sander (AGAIN, for the Third time!) and Enter... WHO? Rodolfo Paglialunga... Yeah, Him! So, what is he bringing to the Table that may Avert more Crisis? From his Debut Chez Jil Sander for Spring 2015, it would seem a lot of Good Ideas that simply need to be Defined, Refined and less strict to the Archives and more Himself. When that Happy Medium is reached (If he is given enough time to get there) then this might be a Successful Marriage.
There was a Lot to get Interested and Excited by here, Paglialunga did not create Easy-to-Digest Fashion. It was Awkward, a lot of it, It was Imprecise, but there was the definite feeling of a Mind at work here, thinking about clothes in a New way, It might not have been pretty, But it was Something! A lot of Designers would have taken a safer path through the archives, Paglialunga looked at it as a template and began to play... is this his Modus Operandus? One cannot know yet, but That Frisson of the New is always a good thing. Even if much of this is over the heads of those witnessing it and feeling it Clunky and Misshapen... well... It did have Soul and it had a P.O.V!
The Big Takeaway, Paglialunga's Colour Sense is Phenomenal. The colours here bounced off one another and complimented without one Iota of Coordinating! It was Shocking and Orgasmic. Look at the Paper thin Leather Wrap Skirt in Prune with the Prussian Blue Elastic Waist top on Leila Nda... HEAVEN! Or the Pomegranate Red drop-sleeve top on Waleska Gorczevski paired with the Saddle Orange Leather wrap skirt... Paglialunga has an Eye for Colour that hasn't been seen since YSL or Isaac Mizrahi.
Paglialunga could come to Redefine Fashion in the Next Few years given the Space to grow and Flourish. Jil Sander simply needs to keep him and give him all that he needs to Excel. I didn't Want to like this collection. When first viewing it, it confounded me, Then I looked again and I was Transfixed, Mesmerized, Spellbound. What Rodolfo Paglialunga is Proposing, not all of us will catch onto at first, But when you do... and when it does fully, Finally, Coalesce... Keep Your Seats Buckled, because it's gonna get Very Fast, Very Quickly!