Provocation can oft times come across as Confusing. Simply because it disconcerts the norm and causes one to look at things in a Different way. In the best of scenarios, That's the Raison D'Etre of Provoking. But In other Efforts, It just leaves Confusion.
I like being Provoked in good ways, like anyone else. I don't like being Confused. Allessandro Dell'Acqua posited a Good deal of both in his No. 21 Spring 2015 collection and left one with the Uneasy, Quizzical sensation of... "What Did I Just Witness?" It was a Bold Proposition. One not easily Digested. The Counterbalance of Military and Lingerie was not the difficult part, so to speak, it was the Jarring sense of how the two blended and morphed around one another creating a whole new Fashion Species. Then throw in Grunge Plaid with Brocade or Lace, Sheer with Structured pieces and Dell'Acqua had a Bewildering Question Mark of a collection on his hands!
Approached as individual Outfits or pieces, the collection was Quite lovely... A Rust Sheer Lace Chemise dress, Or a Brief Army Green Military skewed belted waist Shirt Dress that opened the show, Even the Nude Sheer on Sheer combo of a belted Camp shirt and Slim skirt was ripe with possibility. However, as things moved forward and the pairings grew more Arbitrary, the viewer was left wondering...
In the final moments of it all, I can't say it was a Disaster. In fact, It was one of those kind of collections that is going to stick in the minds of it's audience, whether they hated it, was indifferent towards it or loved it, as a Catalyst of something that will only be understood later when it is filtered down through other interpolations and will only be recognized as Groundbreaking with the passage of time.. In that respect, Dell'Acqua Captured Lightning in a Bottle. However, as that is always a Gambit Fraught with Peril, He also culled Immense Confusion in the process.