Friday, September 5, 2014


Sun. 03/02/2014.

Lee Miller. Her name appeared again as an inspirational Jumping-Off point this season as it earlier did for Roberto Cavalli. Where as in Cavalli's Case the inspiration was Wan at the Very Best, in Phoebe Philo's Fall 2014 Celine collection one could perhaps draw the Parallel a little more obviously than in Cavalli's extremely reaching collection! There was definitely a Strong Woman being presented here, one with Grace and Elegance but a certain amount of Power and Control as well. I was a fan at the beginning, when Philo took over the house. For a few years though, she produced work that was, In all Due Honesty, Hideous! But the Fashion Corps Ate it up like Sevruga. Philo is one of those untouchables... No matter how Jacked-Up Fucking Stone Cold Horrible her collections may be, The Fashion Inner Sanctum is going to be going Ape Shit Bananas for it. 

As an aside, It's also VERY Hard to Root for Philo who in her years so far at Celine (Four Years...) didn't Until Spring 2014, didn't use a SINGLE Model of Colour in her shows! NOT ONCE! That makes her in my case, Almost impossible to like. Yes, the clothes should be the only context in which the Judging should take place, but, C'mon.... REALLY, Phoebe? You and your Brit Twin Sarah Burton both lacked Diversity on your Runways until Iman and Bethann called out people in 2014. Then ALL of a sudden there were Girls of Colour in your shows... I could go deeper, but will refrain for now.

The Clothes... Right! They were Pretty Damn Magnificent. They weren't Earth Shattering, Nor Particularly Inventive, Philo seems always to be playing Catch-Up to Prada and her clothes look it. The tailoring was Stunning, and the Thirties Cut and Lines made the ideas Fresh. Also if you're looking for one of the Best Camel Coats this season or Any, Look no further than Here. The one served up by Philo at Exit No. 29 with a Mink Belt was Far and Away a work of Perfection!

Otherwise... It was Beautiful. But little more. Philo seems to want to imbue her clothes with Subtext and Layers of meaning. It's not that serious. Unless you're Miuccia, to whom such comes Naturally... Don't Try! It detracts from the clothes. It would also help if the Fashion Inner Circle would stop trying to make her a Messiah of Fashion and Prosaically Drone on with Luxuriant Abandon about her clothes.... It's Sycophantic and Philo's work isn't Amazing enough for such Devotion...

Tim Blanks... I am Talking, To You!

That's All.


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