Say Goodbye to the Jason Wu of Yesteryear. The Fiercely Feminine, even slightly Madame character that was the past Wu Archetype has been encompassed within the New, Less Exaggeratedly Femme Construct of the House. In past seasons, this struggle between the Old and New Jason Wu, has led to Uneven and Frankly Unappealing collections. Spring 2015 was the first peek into the Balanced new outlook for the house which even in rejecting all that was before and embracing the Modern Aesthetic of the house. This time Wu got it Right, and in a Major Way.
The first step in the dance of getting to the look of the New Wu is incorporating something of the Old style, even as minuscule as that may be, with the new. Where Wu has Faltered deeply in the past few seasons was falling too far away from the Tenets of his style while trying to evolve his style to what it has eventually become. This was the moment all the pieces fell into place. Wu's Femininity may be a little more on the Subdued side now, but it's in no way sublimated into non-existence, it just has taken on a different Guise.
That manifested itself to start with as a Belted suit that had Vaguely Militaristic styling but was cut out of a Beautifully Airy Brushstroke print fabric and showed loads of leg with the wrap slit in the skirt. It inhabited a realm somewhere between Strict and Delicate. Powerful but still Soft. This Balanced Dichotomy was the secret ingredient in the Spring 2015 Wu Recipe. This was ever more evident in the Floating, Sensual dress that appeared a few exits later,
Even when Wu showed strength in his outfits, he threaded it with a Femme edge, A Slate Green Suede wrap coat, a Black Leather Shell paired with a Skinny Carbon Blue Pencil skirt, Or the Steely Perfection shown in a Palomino Colour Long sleeve Belted dress that was Full on Minimal but felt Far from Anonymous! Even his Evening options simmered with the Powerful undercurrent of Iron Tough Strength, The Beaded dresses were Sinfully Sexy revealing Leg and Back and Breast, each one a Stunner but the best of the Bunch was not a dress, but a Slender Blouse on Caroline Brasch Nielsen paired with Fluid Trousers that melded the Masculine/Feminine Halves Flawlessly!
From here Wu went full on Glam, His duet of Evening gowns in Salmon and Navy Satin Chiffon were Drop-Dead Stunners from Top to Toe, but it was, Inevitably, Karlie Kloss that said the most in a Tea-Length Belted Shirt Dress in the same material, that was cut not to reveal, but to Infer and Infer It Did! It was Fragile and Sharp and caused a Catch of one's Breath! Hopefully, This will be the collection that focuses Wu on his True North. Wu has faltered for a few seasons too long with collections that have blurred his vision to the point of unrecognizable. This New Wu is a Synthesis of what he is trying to achieve and what he so easily achieved in the past, It's Exciting to see where this will propel Wu and his Fashion Vision. This being the first step in that Journey, One can look forward to the future with Renewed Confidence!