At first Look, In static Photographs, or being at the show and seeing for the first time, one does not immediately Grasp the significance of the Fall 2014 Rochas collection presented by the new Designer of the House, Allesandro Dell'Acqua. It's easy to look at it as Bloated, Unflattering, A Miscalculation of the most Intense Degree. Some pieces would give Credence to that! But, Once you look at the Video of it after that first impression you see a Cataclysmic Inference from these clothes. One that just might change the way Fashion is seen in the next few seasons!
Dell'Acqua presented a Collection of Dark, Gothic, Almost Macabre Beauty. It was so Irreverent that it bordered on the Insane. That Dell'Acqua would produce Such Bulky, Hulking, Ungainly silhouettes that fought against Slenderness and Litheness and Elongation Tooth, Nail and Claw... Was positively Maniacal for a Fashion Designer. These clothes made the Willowy, Reed-Thin Models look like they were Bloated, Flotilla-Like. Yet, there was a Perverse, Arch Beauty to this. Even in the Fatness making of the clothes, they still looked Devastatingly Beautiful, and more to the point, Desirable. It would take a Woman of High Mind to pull these off, Yes, but in this approach, Dell'Acqua may have set in motion Ripples of a Revolution that might not be felt until seasons later, Make No Doubt, though, this will Resonate. In one way or another.
That Dell'Acqua would So Brazenly Reject one of the Highest tenets of Fashion Making, Slimness, Leanness, Thinness, And go for something so Counter-Intuitive could be seen as Fashion Heresy, Or more likely, Suicide! But, the Clamourous Standing Ovation he received after his show means that somewhere in the minds of The Fashion Statesmen, They Got It, too! Some of the experiments were Hopelessly lost to Unwearability, only for the sole fact that they were Irretrievably Clumsy and Awkward. But when Dell'Acqua was working his Groove, It was Palpably Earth-Shattering!
The very Audacity of the idea of layering Heavy Woolen or Mohair coats over another Heavy Tweed or Woolen Coat with a Huge skirt underneath created Quietly Sensual Volumes that covered all, and suggested nothing, yet still let the imagination Quiver. Especially that those Fabrics were EXCEPTIONALLY Luxurious made the Duality even more Sybaritic! The Embellishments also lent to a Gluttonous sense of Indulgence that gave a Fetishistic undercurrent of Onanism!
A Cocoon coat in Black with Velvet Flower embroideries was at once Opulent and Comforting. A Spruce Green A-line Dress with Crewel embroideries on the skirt of the dress had Exquisite, Calculated movement in it's volume and all the while being Coy, but not Virginal in it's Austerity! A Sack-like dress on Juliana Schurig at Exit No. 22 also had Pious Rigour but was again, Not Strict.
The Final Parade of Oversized, Ballooning Evening pieces had the possibility of Disaster written all over them, They may have dipped dangerously close to such a fate, but came off as something So New and Unseen that it was more Monumental in it's Daring than Offensive. A Gold tank and Fils-Coupe Velvet Ballskirt on Devon Windsor was Unashamedly Brilliant and Gorgeous.
This was something of a Rarity in the Fashion World, Something So Shockingly New that it actually was seen as just a Miscalculation. Many didn't get the Gist of what was happening. Dell'Acqua took the role of Provocateur and Challenged the Eye. That many simply brushed off as Bad Start at the house of Rochas or that it was a Flop, Missed the Colossal statement being made. It might not register with all at this moment, But those of us who bore witness to the coming of a New Fashion Agenda... We rightfully Stood Up and Applauded!