Sunday, September 7, 2014

Emanuel Ungaro.

Mon. 03/032014.

What Emanuel Ungaro was in the past and what it is now are sadly, Polar Opposites. There was Much life in the house and a Possibility for Resurgence had Peter Dundas stayed at the helm, Or even Better had Ungaro's Hand Picked Protege Giambattista Valli stayed the course... (Wouldn't it be Delicious if Valli were to come back and Transform the House back to it's former glory?) and we see how those two fared as they developed their styles... But those days are Dead and Gone. Giles Deacon was even seeming to be finding a path meshing the past with the present at Ungaro... 

Now we have (And probably not for much longer, Thankfully) Fausto Puglisi messing things up Chez Ungaro. Puglisi is a young man who needs some serious Maturing of his Style. His clothes for his own label and for Ungaro, Especially, Come off as Fatuous and Inexperienced. Not things that are needed to bring a Label like Ungaro into the 21st Century. The clothes Puglisi presents at Ungaro are Tasteless and Vapid. Trashy also comes to mind. In his own work, the Trashy element is a Positive, Here, it just looks Foolish and Unsophisticated. 

Puglisi is trying to inject Youth and Modernity by Channeling his Rock/Grunge/Glam Aesthetic into the Formulas of the Ungaro House Codes and by doing so, rendering them completely Unrecognizable. Somehow, one cannot help but feel that this in the end will ultimately lead him to success as it did Christophe Decarnin when he decided to Shake up Balmain with the same approach. But Puglisi doesn't have the Luxe factor right... Yet. Maybe he will get there. I can't say I am hopeful.

Here's where it gets tricky. One can see that Puglisi is talented and I Like what he has to say if he manages (and with time and a Smack-In-The-Face Epiphany, He will!) to lose the Cheapness quotient in his clothes. His shit just doesn't look Expensive or Luxuriously Glam. It looks Frankly... Hot Topic/Forever 21 Glam! That is even more so magnified at Ungaro. He can Design, Yes, but what he is doing with that design is in no way serving the clothes in Positive Lights.

Puglisi's Fall 2014 collection suffered all those blights. It looked Overdone, Cheap, Tasteless and Tacky! I couldn't really find one Idea or Outfit I liked enough to Mention in a Favorable manner. I can SEE that there is the Kernel of something waiting to Explode into a Puffy Perfect piece of Popcorn! But at this particular moment... It's Just a Seed!

That's All.


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