The Good News Or The Bad News, first?
Ok, We'll go with the Good! Fall 2014 saw Elie Saab's Biggest push towards Day wear yet and it was a Welcome and Glorious development! Calling his collection "Dark Opulence" and inspired by the Degrade Ombre colour pieces of Artist Mark Rothko, Saab engaged in Shadings of colours in his Dramatic colour palette of Wine and Mallard Green and Black with touches of Dusty and Antique Rose. There was even a Painterly Floral print on a Black Ground that was one of the prettiest things this entire season. These were all positive attributes...
Now onto the Bad... Other than the aforementioned... This was just another Saab Rehash of Evening Flotsam and Jetsam. And worse, not even one of his best evening efforts. There were some Stunners, For God's Sake, It is after all ELIE SAAB! But too often his "Dark Opulence" Looked more like Dreary and Drab. The heaviness of the Beading and Sequin Embroidery too often made the models look Thick and Wide, and I love a Good Velvet moment as much as anyone, but here, they were Heavy and Fusty, Like tired old Drapes.
Some pieces stood out for the better, A Saucy Bordeaux Wrap vest and matching pants on Manuela Frey was hitting JUST the Right Spot, whilst that Floral print was swathed into a Fabulement Gown on Daria Strokus and Cindy Bruna was Giving Super Bitch Chic in a Mallard Green Mink wrap coat with Black Collar and Slim pants!
The rest was ranging from Forgettable to Mediocre, By Saab Standards. The Positive Takeaway... Saab seems to be fully committing himself to Day clothes and that can be nothing but good. But he also needs to finding a way to Freshen up some of his Ideas and Signatures. If he can start to Inject the Day wear element into his Haute Couture Shows, and Stop with the Infuriating Habit of grouping together by Colour his sections of clothes... He'll be a Whole Lot better for it!