As of late, Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra have been mining their own Sartorial lifestyle, Hence Cardigans and Plaids, Especially. for cues in their collections. This has generated quite refreshing results. Costello and Taglipietra are not designers who radically reinvent themselves season to season, Each Collection is a Continuation of the Dialogue that they have set down as the Gospel According to Jeffrey and Robert. Each new season they extend that Dialogue slightly further along, adding new words and phrases to the essential Lexicon of the brand, but by no means speaking in an entirely new tongue. So, What one sees when they view a Costello Tagliapietra collection is mush like a Satellite Orbiting around a Planet but never moving beyond that field of Gravity, but seeing different sides of that said planet as it circles it.
Looking at the collections of the Duo from that Perspective, one is struck by how absolute the principles of their idioms are, but equally how they manipulate those Signatures and make them look different each season, but retain their Elemental and Inherent Similarity. It's Fascinating to watch and it makes their clothing Instantly Recognizable but never Stagnant or Boring. That They have managed to accomplish such a feat is due in no small part to their Dedication to their ideas and just plain old Spectacular Cut, Drape and Seam.
Seaming in fact was the new focus this season as Costello and Tagliapietra explained that they were "Reevaluating (and Falling In Love with) the way they Put Together Clothes" and Equally, wanting to "Highlight Each piece by Delineating The Lines" of their Clothes. On the flip side of that equation the Duo admitted that they had been transfixed by David Lynch movies and more specifically, "Lost Highway" How exactly David Lynch and Costello Tagliapietra Cross-Pollinate is a Mystery to me, but it worked. No Small Miracle, That!
In the case of the clothes themselves... Wonderful as always. The Opening Brocaded Silk suit with a Flippy, Swingy skirt in Zinc Blue was a Positive and New development for the bears of 7th Ave. It was Femme and Strong in Balanced Measure, while a China Blue dress with a pleated Circle skirt and Scarf like Asymmetric Bodice in Jersey was Signature Jeffrey and Robert. A draped Cerulean Blue Shadow Plaid dress with Solid Jersey Back also was typical of the house, But was Sexy as All Out Damn and Pretty much Perfect!
A few other pieces stood out among the throng, they wore more Enthralling because of their Apparent Simplicity, yet there is nothing simple in achieving the Fluid ease that these Two do. A simple Crepe Jersey keyhole neckline dress in Dark Cadet Blue was Pure Mastery of the craft of dressmaking while the Turmeric and Cinnamon at Exit No. 21 had a Liquid Ease of Halston with the Louche Languidness of 70's era YSL.
Costello and Tagliapietra put forth an, as always, Outstanding effort that continues to Define the House Signatures while carefully moving their ideas into new Spheres. One could blame them for not pushing their boundaries more Extravagantly and designing out of their Comfort Zone, But in the Grand Scheme of things, the masterful way they Reinterpret their own Fashion Identity from season to season without falling into a trap of redundancy is Quite the Exceptional Feat! Costello and Tagliapietra are not going to be radically redefining their standards any time in the foreseeable future, and the fact that they continue to Fascinate with their Body Exalting, Figure Limning, Physique Enhancing masterpieces, No one is really asking them To!