Thursday, September 11, 2014

Valentino Haute Couture.

Weds. 07/09/2014.

Oh, Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo, What Magic you Concoct! Your work for the house of Valentino defies Explanation at times, There were moments in their Fall 2014 Haute Couture collection that approached such Mastery, even though the collection was less outwardly Extravagant than per usual for the duo. However, if not as Outwardly Opulent as we've come to expect from Chiuri and Piccioli, it was nonetheless still the height of Exquisite Luxuriousness in a more Quiet fashion! 

Channeling the 19th Century Pre-Raphelite Artists, Chiuri and Piccioli showed a pared back collection with a focus on Stripped down, Ascetic Forms that exemplified the Purity of the Chiton and Toga. The best outfits this time around were the Plainest, although there were a number of Stunners showcasing the Phenomenal Embroideries that are the House Signature. As for those Embroideries, even they were affected by the more ascetic ideas being expressed and were relegated to Abstract Flowers and Sheaves of Wheat, The best was the White outfits that were devoid of any embellishment or Superfluous detail including Buttons and Zips. 

There were Leather straps that encircled the torso on many outfits, gave a bit of "Bondage" Chic without any of the sexual connotations swirling about it. Which brings to mind all the sheerness seen in this show as well... it didn't come off as remotely sensual. It had a almost Virginal Naive Innocence that was Startling but also showed that capabilities of Chiuri and Piccioli in almost Penitent Judiciousness.

Another point of interest, aside from the last Three evening gowns, much of the options for evening were blissfully free of any ornamentation whatsoever. just the Gorgeous Cut and Liquid Drape of the Fabric, the Operatic Chiffon gown in Black at Exit No. 58 was a Floating Dream Equatable to the one the duo showed in their Pret-A-Porter collection near the end on Julia Nobis... the power of this Equation is that the technique is so Earth Shattering that the gowns could be interchangeable because of their faultless technique!

Strangely, As Beautiful and Exorbitant as some of the Adornment of some of the evening pieces in this collection were, and in the typical way of looking at things Chez Valentino, As expected and Desired as they were, the more elaborately decorated pieces felt somehow, slightly, out of place. Almost, dare one say, Improper! Scathingly Exquisite, Oh, God, YES! But they seemed somehow, Indecently Extravagant among  these Chaste Beauties.

Yet, That raises an interesting dialogue on the Dichotomy of this collection. If one views the whole without the more lavish pieces as relief, would this have been too Puritan to feel like Valentino at all? Or would it have been more interesting a collection, breaking new ground for the duo, if they had fully explored this Continent idea would it have been actually more Groundbreaking? One can never know and maybe it is better that way, That we have in this collection Pure as the Driven Snow outfits in Blinding Heavenly Light White Juxtaposed against outfits cut from Rare 17th Century Tapestries of Outlandish Exquisiteness and Intricacy is a Miracle of the greatest proportion.

Chiuri and Piccioli's Collection was not free from mishap, it wasn't their strongest or most even showing, but what was great about it, was Monumentally So! This showing upped the Ante as each Collection from the Val Duo has for the last 3 years or so. That they have advanced the Dialogue so far with this collection as to almost make it unrecognizable in places, yet still utterly Desirous, is an achievement or Atlas-like Strength of Identity and Imagination. It also, more so than had they just thrown down more Intricacies on top of Intricacies, propelled the duo light years ahead and gives rise to the idea that Chiuri and Piccioli may have New tricks up their sleeve to show us. It was a Brave Move, And a Wholly Exciting One!

That's All.


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