One thing that is for sure, Christopher Kane can Cut a Damn Fine Blazer and Coat! For Fall 2014, Kane showed some Superior Tailoring skills with some of the most Covetable Coats and Blazers of the season, Sharp, Precise, Exacting. They Hit all the high points. But it's about there that the Good things to say, End. Christopher Kane is an Immense Talent, That cannot be argued. Kane has ways of thinking about clothes that put him in that rare Catalog of Talents like John Galliano and Balenciaga. People who Changed the way clothes were looked at and Made. That does not equate actually into making anything with those talents that are Wearable or Beautiful.
Kane has been getting Massive Hype recently and with that hype it seems he has allowed himself the Freedom to Indulge himself in his Eccentricities and care more and more less about REAL Clothes and create Show Pieces. The fashion Cognoscenti are throwing Accolades at him Fast, Thick, Deep and Wide, no wonder one might get a little high on the Hype!
Kane's Major Flaw as of late, and Overabundance of ideas, Disparate ones at that. There is so much being said that much of the times they have not one thing to do with the other things. There are Ideas upon Ideas and Within Ideas and they certainly don't all Cohere into a Feasible Whole. They Appear and Disappear and Reappear and have no Context with the other parts of collection so they seem Disjointed and Aimless. Add to that a Severe need to Edit his collection, And you are left with a Show that is Taxing!
The Opening section had some solid ideas and Pieces, the Vinyl worked Marvellously to add a dash of the Off-Kilter especially in a Shift dress at Exit No. 4 with a big PVC Pocket flap in the middle of the Chest. It looked good when it was Utilitarian, but when applied to the Dresses in Black and Brown, It looked Hopelessly Childish, as in 5-6 year old Girl Childish! They had Not one Iota of Adult Chic to them! Then there was the Housefrau moment in Vinyl Coats and dresses that looked like Yards of Cassette Tape and was as Incoherent and Tacky looking as could be!
More Ideas followed, at least 3-4 different ideas passed by and none felt connected to one another. The Flower Picture prints had nothing to do with the Micro beaded pieces which had nothing to do with the Ribbon-y Sleeve outfits (Which By the way were Damnably AWESOME!) which had nothing to do with the wavy grid print knit dresses... It was Disorienting on the most extreme level. As if Kane simply tired of one idea before fully fleshing it out and considering how it interacted with the rest of the collection and Simply, Mercurially, Moved on to something new.
By the time those Impossibly Innovative Book page dress in Organza came out, one was already exhausted from all the Moth-Like flitting about, But these last few pieces did Make the Chest Catch with Breath! Not because they spoke to anything realistic, nor were they even Fantasies, yet they were Fantastical! The craft that went into them HAD to be deeply appreciated, It was Formidable! The sad part is, they were completely and utterly unwearable. Even the most Brass Ballsy of Divas would look Absurdly foolish in these dresses. Daphne Guinness would even say... Um... No, I'll Pass! That's how Outrageously Outre they were! Magnificent, But the Equivalent of a Fashion Joke.
In all this, Kane is being made, Transformed, into a Star, He is deserving of the accreditation, surely. But it is getting the best of him it would seem, this Transformation. One would wish he'd focus on a few ideas and Push them to their Zenith rather than be many things to many people. His talent is what got him here, he should rely on that a little more rather than Tricks and Profuse Design!
Brevity, Lad. Brevity!
Brevity, Lad. Brevity!