Artful Dishevelment can be an interesting, and when done right, Arresting idea in a Fashion Collection, Hell John Galliano Got RICH from doing it. And then, there is just... Dishevelment. And rather that is Luxurious or Spartan, the fact remains, it's still Disheveled. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were not Artful in their Dishevelment. This is the most current example in a long line of recent collections where the Marchesa Duo have lost their way. No one is asking them to remain Steadfastly stuck in the glories of the past, but if you're going to move the label forward, try to retain some of the Identity that got you to where you are now. Those Tendencies of the past are now mere flashes of brilliance among a throng of Detritus. The Thicket that Chapman and Craig are trapped in seems to grow ever more Dense and Obscuring with each new Iteration.
Everything in the beginning of this show looked Taxing, Overwrought, Bloated with Excessive Design. And God KNOWS, these girls are Known for Excessive design, yet in the past it was accomplished with a Feather light sense of Effortlessness and if it was Glorious Bedazzled, It was Stunning because it was so Special and Considered and just plain Diabolically Gorgeous! Here, No such luck. Here, we had Inelegant Draping and Frankly, Mystifying choices in applications of Lace and Embroidery that looked like something was Molting rather than Luxe!
Not until Exit No. 16 was anything presented that had even the Remotest hint of Special. The Black dress here was a Totally Marvellous rendering of "Le Petit Robe Noire" even if those Fetishistic Dominatrix boots almost threw the whole look askew. Then another period of Dreck. When Pauline Hoarau Emerged in a Stunner of Olympian Proportion cut out of Rippling Curry Spice Yellow Satin, at Exit No. 22, She was a Dream Walking!
Things continued like this until the end, Long Stretches of Dumbfoundingly and quite Honestly, Inexcusably Distracting clothing, then a Magical Bright Shining moment, All too Mercurially Brief and Ephemeral, And, Voila! Disparus! It was gone. A couple more of these Ephemerailties alighted upon the stage, a Mary Queen of Scots Worthy gown in Black and White Pinwheel Rosettes and Ruffles for Exit No. 28 (The duo said that there was a Scottish inspiration flowing through this collections veins, which was obvious, but helped things not!) And the Closer, A Crumpled Taffeta Masterpiece in that Bright Curry Colour again was Imbued with Exquisite Gravitas and Had True Majesty suffused within it!
One can only Hope, Pray, Wish, Use Witchcraft... SOMETHING... One can only entreaty that the Marchesa girls get their Damn Act together! This has not been the best application of their Legendary Talents. Expand your ideas, that is a Crucial MUST to survive the Shark Laden Fashion waters, But never lose what it was that made you great. For Chapman and Craig, it seems that they are slackening their hold on that tether more profoundly as the collections span on. Here's to the hope that they throw themselves a Lifeline!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
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