Tory Burch. Purveyour of all things Bohemian and Luxuriant! There is an always Richesse Streak running through Burch's Clothes that is cheekily Sublimated through a Urban Prism. Things never get too Uptown, like say a Carolina Herrera or Oscar De La Renta, Nor are they the Jet Set Extravagances of a Michael Kors or Ralph Lauren. She sits somewhere in the Pantheon with her aesthetic near to Queen of the Urban Amazon, Diane Von Furstenburg, Just in a more Younger Cousin kind of way! Where Diane was out til GOD KNOWS WHAT TIME OF NIGHT in the 70's rubbing shoulders with YSL and Halston and Liza and Warhol... Tory was pretty much just readying to enter Kindergarten! But I would see Burch as a Contemporary of DVF in the sense that they both have a Distinct and Resonant look that immediately Calls to mind each Designer! You Know a Tory Burch Piece from a Mile away and it you don't need that Gothic Double T Insignia to telegraph it for you.
But now comes Fall 2014, and Burch is mixing things up a bit. Hitting the Refresh Button and perhaps sweeping aside much of the Signature Tory Burch Ideas lent a Pulsation of Freshness pumping through the bloodlines of the house! Taking up motivic ideas from her Father's collection of Suits of Armor sent a ripple of the Ancienne through her clothes that was handled in a most resolutely modern scheme. From Embroidered Crosses to a Dragon Print that looked definitely 12th-Century, The References were not as strict as deconstructing and reconfiguring Metal suits of Armor, but the references to The Tapestries and Dress of the men and women of those Ancient times were readily apparent!
It all made for a truly Impressive Showing from Burch that elevated her ideas beyond Luxurious Basics into something more Adventurous and a little Dangerous! It all could have toppled like an unsteady Pile of Bricks. After opening with a couple pieces that set the foundation of saying to the Audience assembled, "This Is Still Tory Burch" The designer opted for something a little more Tricky by Exit No. 4, a Tweed and Scrunched up Fur coat with Melton Wool sleeves. Say Huh? Yes, it was a little off-kilter for the house but looked Divine!
Exit No. 9 was one of the few pieces (and the Exit that followed, More on that in a moment) that took Literal latitude with the Armor inspiration, consisting of Squares of Wool linked together with Metal rings to ape the Chain Mail worn under suits of Armor to form a Sweater while pieces of Leather were used for the Skirt. It was Breathtaking and Showed a Lot of Artistry and Ingenuity as well as Modernity! The Jacket and Skirt that followed became a New Power Suit and was one of the best Pieces of the Season!
With the exception of Cream and Ivory, Most of Burch's Colours for the first 3/4 of the show were Muted... Grey, Midnight Blue, Violet, Black and Navy, but by Exit No. 30, on Hometown Girl Riley Montana, Things were taking a more Vivid Tack as Red became the Primary Culprit. The Foulard printed coat was one of those things that looked like some Smoking Jacket that Burch's father might have worn and with it's proportions in the show, like something Young Tory would have slipped on and Strode around secretly in whilst no one was looking! Genius!
Finishing with a Nod to the Renaissance outright, the Sprightly Coloured Lurex and Silk print Fils Coupe Gown was Catching some of that Valentino Puritanical/Excess vibe but looked Wholly Tory Burch! Ms. Burch is proving that her Brand is Strong and So is her Signature. Yet, like all houses, she realizes she needs to get elbow deep in there and shake out the cobwebs and throw a few curve balls to keep things interesting and Stave off Staidness. With Pitching this confident, it seems Burch Will continue to throw Strikes! Play Ball, Ms. Burch!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
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