Monday, August 11, 2014

J. Crew.

Tues. 02/11/2014.

J. Crew.

Jenna Lyons has placed J. Crew on the Righteous path of Fashion Powerhouse! With Tom Mora at her side the house has become a Chic Can't Miss part of the New York Fashion Season and the clothes are coveted from Madison Avenue to Rodeo Drive and every point on the map in between. Why? Because the J. Crew has become a "House" Now. Not a company pumping out Preppy Basics with a Blase attitude. No! It has become a Sure as Hell Fashion House that is competing with the big names for much precious attention in the Killing Fields that are the International  Fashion Scene. That they stand out amongst the throng is a tribute to Lyons Precision and Ferocity of Vision and Mora's Steady and Inspired Hand at Design!

For Fall 2014 they travelled to Weimar, Hub of the Cabaret scene many decades ago and lifetimes as such. But where that was an uninhibited Bordello of excess, here it was tamed into something that was only alluded to! So, Take away from that what you will, it's better to simply focus on the Clothes. And what clothes, Indeed! From A Superb Pink coat for Look No. 4 to a Shell Pink Shift dress with a Stand Collar and was made of a fabric that was so finely Perforated that you needed to get up close to actually tell at Look No. 9!

The message was in the mix here, and Mora threw together all sorts clashing Textures and Prints and Colours to make a clearly eccentric offering for Fall 2014, but one that could easily be broken down into it's disparate parts and worked into other outfits as easily as the pieces were interchangeable with the items on hand! J. Crew is proving with each new season, that it refuses to stay in one Tidy little Box and be Defined on Past Glories, Every Collection so far has been amping up the risk quotient while still traversing the familiar, albeit it grows increasingly ever towards the fringes of that familiar.

Lyons has the key to success firmly in hand and one hopes come Spring '15 she and Mora (and Menswear designer Frank Muytjens, who did an EXTRAORDINARY Job with the Men's Collection This Season!) will take it to the Runway at Lincoln Center instead of the Static Presentations that they have been doing so far! That intimacy may have suited them in the past, but the training wheels need to come off. When these Three people are designing clothes like this that demand to be seen... They Should Show Them As Such!

That's All.


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