Oh, Woe is Donna Karan! Woe, Indeed! Talk about a Woefully Imbalanced showing. Fall 2014 found Karan not only celebrating 30 years in Fashion, but also Schizophrenically indulging both sides of her, what now seems, Addled Psyche. On one hand, there was the Donna that gave women the "Seven Easy Pieces" Formula for Urban, Contemporary, Modern dressing and on the the other, this Hippy-esque, Quasi-Zen, Spiritual Earthy Yogi Bullcrap that Donna has been slinging Fashion's way for the last few years. That Shit needs to Stop. And Soon! Karan has an archive of some of the most Exquisite Design and Fashion the world has seen. The Wrap Skirt, Anyone? The Bodysuit? The Legging Pant? All Donna! But Now? Perplexity!
Karan is a Master Tailor. She knows JUST how to make a Jacket that accentuates all the things a Woman wants Highlighted and how to hide the things that a gal wants Concealed! Her Opening Exit was one of those Marvels that unfortunately because of Karan's Styling looked like either like a Streetwalker or a Stage outfit for a Revival of "Cabaret" Whichever of those ways, it was Disconcerting, to be kind! Karan showed that she had a totally misguided fascination with Sheer skirts (There were no Pants, virtually, in this collection! Yeah, You read that right! No pants... From Donna Karan!?!?! Makes No Sense, Does it?) and they, at times, worked to Terrifically Dreadful effect to bring this collection down like a Sack of Bricks tied around one's Ankles!
The collection Teeter-Tottered Back and Forth from Sublime to Vexing! One minute there was Magic being cast about, the next, something so ridiculous that the outfit should have been Euthanized! It was altogether Maddening! Because one could see the glimpses what made Karan such a Force to begin with! Look at Exit No. 9, It was Radiant and combined both halves of Karan's aesthetic into a Brilliant Synthesis! The Belted Blazer and full skirt of Exit No. 11 also hearkened back to the Glory Days.
To be sure, It is out of frustration that I comment as such, I KNOW the History of Donna Karan, I Know her at her best. This isn't It. Saying that though, the collection wasn't Tragically Incoherent, But it just lacked that, Laser Precise Focus of the past. The collection was actually Dreamily Beautiful in places and managed to merge Karan's Style influences together, Past and Present, in Lovely ways!
Exit No. 28, A Spice coloured Wrap coat was an Out-And-Out WINNER and Screamed Chic! While Karlie Kloss in the Blood Red Chiffon of Exit No. 35 Simply Seduced! It was also nice to see Karan revisit the Devore Velvets that she so Astoundingly made Famous all the way back in 1996! These were modern and Minimal Wonders today that will be singing straight to her clienteles Heart! The best one was in Ocher on Elisabeth Erm at Exit No. 37!
It wasn't all smooth sailing from there, which seemed like the Mantra of this collection, However, the show did end on a Racy and Typically Karan Moment, Karolina Kurkova in a Sheer Wrap gown that was styled like a Blazer/Coat with Lapels... it was Sensual and alot Daring. Which are two things, when Karan is at her best, are readily apparent. This was a Better effort than Karan has put out than most recently. It was in no Shape, Form or Way free from distress, but it was good where and when it needed to be. The sad part is, That one has to even make that kind of statement about a Designer who once created nothing but Distress free collections... So more Accurately, It would Seem...
Woe is Us!