It was GUARANTEED, From the Moment of it's Inception, That Jeremy Scott's Debut at the Casa De Moschino, was going to be nothing less than a Raucous Affair! It was also going to be one of those, Either it's Gonna Work, or it's Gonna Explode, Spectacularly, in everyone's face, Kinda Moments. In the end, when all was said and done, one had to Sit Back, Chuckle and Say, Did anyone REALLY have to Worry!?!?
Jeremy Scott, Though His proclivities in taste range more to the Sophomoric in their Gag Laden, Pop Art Camp, One must remember, this is the man that just up and moved to Paris with Virtually No money and very little else, (If I remember correctly, The Apocryphal Story is, He jetted off to Paris with $200.00 American and all his possessions In a Pillowcase and Nothing Else!) and made his name as the Most Terrible of the Enfant Terribles to Storm The Boulevards of Gay Paris.
The point of fact that most miss, though Scott has settled into a Commercial Groove that has made him Wealthy enough to keep his business afloat by himself, is that He started out as a sort of Fashion Genius on the Galliano/Chalayan Level. The Man can actually make Truly, Beautifully Made clothes. That was proven today with this debut. Were the clothes Revolutionary, No. Were they Incredibly Wearable. Oh, My YES! Underneath all the Logos and Glorious Schlock, There are clothes that were made to be WORN! Not silly Show Spectacles.
Of course, this Being Moschino... There HAD to Be some Lampooning of the Sacrosanct Chanel! Scott proved himself Mightily up to the task by Hybridizing Chanel and of all things, Something as Instantly Recognizable as... McDonald's! The Cheek of it was Immediately resonant when Lily McMenamy stepped down for the Open in a "Tweed-y" Suit in the Mickey D's Colour Scheme! It was Hilarious and Ballsy as Fuck! The Suit. It was Very Well crafted and Easy to wear and look Fun and Provocative, and also Chic! As things sped along, Scott subverted the "Golden Arches" Logo into a Heart Shape that befitted it's new Contouring for the house of Moschino! A Cow Print was thrown in (McDonald's.... Burgers.... Cows...???) to Subtly Dark Whimsical effect.
Then came... The Quilting! Trimmed in Gold Chains! In Denim AND Leather! He was certainly Barbecuing All the Sacred Cows of Chanel-Dom! He even did "Quilting" In Diamond shaped segments of Pitch Black Sequins. These were most Fantastical and Rather Brilliant, aping Patent, They looked best on a Hooded Pullover at Exit No. 17 with drawstrings at the hem and White ribbed Long Johns! It was Stylish and one of the Quietest Pieces in the whole show! The Faux Fur coat that followed could have even been a Nasty little Poke at Fendi... but it Looked Damnably Sensational! It took Nerve to pair it with a Bikini Under cut out of ribbed men's Underwear material!
There was an Abundance of Ideas to follow. Gold leather paired with the Warmest Chocolate Cherry coloured Patent that looked Stunning together. Even a Versace "Bondage" moment in Black Leather was included! This Section Yielded a Really Editorial Coat at Exit No. 28 that will be seen all over the place, that you can be sure. The Final Passage was a Goofy Spongebob excursion that even though I, Personally, LOATHE Spongebob, Was admittedly Gleeful!
It was after this that Scott showed his Real, True Skills. The Evening Parade of Exquisitely and Lavishly Overscaled Printed Silks in Plays on Brand Names Hither and Yon. Starting with Budweiser in a Brief Dress and OVER-THE-TOP Opera Coat of a Mizrahi Scale. Then he touched Upon everything from Froot Loops, To Gummi Bears, to Microwave Popcorn, They may have seemed Camp-A-Licious but the gowns Were Flawlessly Cut and Light as Thistledown. Scott showed he knows how to work Fabric, WELL! Evident even more so in the last Quartet of pieces...
A Play on a Hershey's Chocolate bar Wrapper, Whipped into a Asymmetric Goddess gown on Chocolate Beauty Jourdan Dunn, (TOTALLY Intentional, I can Bet!) Complete with Silver reverse of the fabric Mimicking the inside of the wrapper. A Cheese Cracker Print Hi-Lo Gown On Nadja Bender with an Off the Shouldetr Bodice, Maria Borges in an Ode to Cheetos in Orange and White and Red with the most Diaphanous Train that glided like it was on a cloud. And finally as Bride... Campy Goddess herself, Lindsay Wixson in a Buoyant Mariee Printed with Nutritional Information.... It was Sublimely Perverse! As well as take away the script print and sell it all in White... A Fabulous Wedding Gown Now do you have!
Some may not get this. It's perhaps a little TOO Flagrant and some prefer their Cheekiness Less Literal. More Cerebral. There's room for all sorts in Fashion, I, Myself think this was a Dazzling Send Up and in a Wonderful way, An Atavism of Glorious Creation to the days when Fashion, Every Day, looked like this. Chanel, USED To look like that. Versace, USED to look like that. Moschino... USED TO LOOK LIKE THIS! It was as much a Lecon De Histoire for most of the Fashion Cognoscenti who were not around Yet for the Good Old Bad Old Days of Overdone Label Whore Fashion. In that, Scott took what was Old and made it New again by making it Old Again! How's That for Intellectual Subtext, Miuccia!?!?