Christian Dior Haute Couture.
Subtext. It's A Trap! A trap that Raf Simons and his Love the sound of his own voice Extolling all the Multiple layers of Subtext, Blind-Eyed Cheerleader Extraordinaire Tim Blanks would love to Ensnare you in! It's pretty much worked. Raf wants it because it's a Validation of his Torturous Intellect. He swims in a Veritable OCEAN of Subtext and sublimates his much more Ingratiating Emotional side for Intellectual Acrobatics. Tim Feeds into this like the... Ahem... SYCOPHANT, That he is! He plumbs all the depths of Simons' Abstruse mental ephemera like an Archaeologist trying to find a Lost Crypt of some ancient Historic Demigod!
By and Large, the rest of the world has fallen into this trap and just love to Analyze The EVER LOVING FUCK Out of Raf's Output at Dior. There's an Onanistic, Self Pleasuring, Orgiastic Conceit that the Dior Acolytes indulge like some Meth Fueled Circuit Boy! Well, I am not in that Fan Club. Yes, Admittedly, I fell in Love with Raf's Fall 2014 Couture collection and Waxed Rhapsodic about it. Yet that doesn't mean I can't or WON'T Take the man to task when he comes up Short! Nor will I be the one to Ascribe all the Intellectual Patina to the clothes that every one else does.
Obviously there was a David Bowie/Ziggy Stardust Inspiration going on... one could tell that even if it had not been directly implicated. The Sequined Jumpsuits and Swirling Unitards were Copiously Obvious of that fact. But you start channeling the Bowie in the 70's and you're bound to catch something of a Futuristic Fever, Here Raf went for a 60's by way of the 70's inflection. The Mod-ish Minis and Tight Go-Go Boots... The Brief Slimline coats and suits, they all had a Space Age feel of Mary Quant and Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. One truly felt that point hit home with Simons' use of Plastic as a Jumping off point. That Certainly Hearkened back to the Good Ole Swinging 60's
Surprisingly though, I found this collection to be Quite Entrancing, some Incredibly Beautiful things were achieved here. The Swaying Full skirts and dresses were Brilliant riffs on the Dior "New Look" with their small waists and Voluminous Shape. What Simons did with lace and how he transmogrified the delicate material into something Tougher, Sharper, but still inherently Sweet and also, Luxuriant was real Fashion Prestidigitation! Though Simons' repeating of Certain Garments was to say the VERY least, Infuriating. Why waste time showing the same Damn Plastic Opera Coat, The same Damn Catsuit... Half a dozen or more times? What was the Point?
The Pieces that caused the most Delicious Sighs of Ecstasy were a pair of Coats in Grass Green and Lemon Yellow, they Pretty much were without peer! As was his Finale of Super Crisp, Tight Fan Pleats that were Buoyant but not anywhere near FLUFFY! The Yellow version on Marie Piovesan and the White version on Kinga Rajzak were both of Outstanding Nature!
While this collection didn't bring one to the Olympian Heights of Fall 2014, It had moments of Shocking Brilliance and Divine Craftsmanship. The clothes were so Amazingly Executed that the Dissection of them on a Intellectual level cheapened the Emotional Resonance of such clothes. Real Works of Greatness can certainly stand up to analyzing, No one is saying to exclude a more Penetrating survey of the work, But when one tries to Plumb the Depths so far that they hit the Figurative Ocean Floor of investigation... All it appears is that that person has traveled so far down that instead of finding deeper insight... They Just Missed The Point!