Monday, July 13, 2015

Emanuel Ungaro.

Mon. 09/29/2014.

Emanuel Ungaro.

Trying to Capture something of the Classic, Retro Ungaro style and making it relevant for the here and now is an Absolute Fools Errand for someone like Fausto Puglisi. He has neither the Taste Level or the Understanding of The GREAT Emanuel himself for Romance, Tenderness, Fragility and Strength. So, when just picking some of the Obvious Ungaro-isms... The Pleated Draping, The Clashing prints, The Louche Deep, Revealing Necklines... if one has no true Respect or Comprehension of what Ungaro was saying when the Master Himself was doing those things.. they come off Cheap, Tawdry, TACKY!

Spring 2015 was a Prime Example of this Dichotomy. Fausto Puglisi has many miles to walk before he can fully acclimate the Ungaro Label into the Now. For one, it comes off too much like a Diffusion line of his own work, he uses so many of his own tropes in the collection that they become somewhat interchangeable. all good for having a Recognizable style, but either Sublimate it or Amplify it to a Higher level when designing for another house, especially one that has a rich history, such as the case with the La Maison Ungaro.

The Cornea Liquifying Brazenness of the colours used in the signature Ungaro Splatter Floral prints just were Headache inducing... had Puglisi tempered them with solids instead of compounding the nausea inducing effect of the Neon Saturated colours by Doubling Down and layering them together, it would have been less full on Brain Meltingly painful! A Simple White Coupe-Fil Shirt dress was about the only thing that didn't get dipped in Colour so bright that the Eyeballs of the viewer Deliquesced like that Scene from "Raiders of the Lost Ark" Well, that and the all Black outfits.

Puglisi has shown he does not have ANY Clue what to do with the House of Ungaro... and The owners of the Label better grab his shoulders and give him a shaking of a Lifetime to get him on track. If he continues producing Failures like this, his days ought to be Numbered by the Execs. The saddest thing is, There are glimpses of a Talented designer in there somewhere, there were all too brief moments of Class, but they were suffocated by the Inelegance and Lowbrow nature and quality of most of the rest of the clothes. If Puglisi can Harness that spark of Classiness and focus it... He just may do something Wonderful... I am not betting the Farm on it, But there have been Greater and Bigger odds conquered!

That's All.


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