Sophomore Slump. That's all I can possibly deduce from Nicholas Ghesquiere's less than Exciting and somewhat Flat second RTW show for the house of Louis Vuitton for Spring 2015. Where as we all were excited for the Debut and with as strong as it was, that excitement was rewarded with Ghesquiere's Quirky and Individualistic approach to the label we had some come to Love, Covet, WORSHIP under the Flawlessly Magical Hands of Marc Jacobs. But, after a DAMN Fine Resort collection, this felt like a Misguided step in the wrong direction. It wasn't Awful. It just wasn't... Very Good.
I was suspect to start, when the Mirrors of Faces all in unison began doing a riff on one of my Most Favorite of Favorite Movies, "Dune" That's Sacred Ground you're traipsing all over, Mr. Nic, Be VERY Careful! The show that followed was barely Futuristic as such an opening Monologue would have led us to believe it was going to be. The best thing of the show was that Ghesquiere offered up some Spectacularly tailored and crafted Jackets, Coats and Pants with a disappointing counterpoint of an overly heavy handed reliance on Meshy, Woven leather, Collage dresses with flippy Skater Skirts that more often than not, were Just Plain Old Ugly. Not for design reasons, but because the Colours were so Depressing! Or in the case of the Chili Pepper Red that was used... Jarring!
Ugly and Ugly Colour got along Hand-in-Hand again in the latter third of the show in some Truly Flummoxing Combinations in Tapestry Printed pieces, most often, Horrendously so, IN VELVET, in the most Abysmal colour combinations one could have ever dreamed of in the most Turgid of Nightmarish Fugues! Even the last two Jet Black Sequin pieces, which were OOZING Chic could not save the ship from sinking after those Torpedoes of Bad Taste! Miuccia Prada would have looked at those Velvets and Said, Uh-uh... FUCK NO! And we all know her Penchant for the Garish!
Spring 2015 wasn't a BAD Collection for Ghesquiere at Vuitton, It just wasn't GREAT. The promise of his Debut and his First Resort collection simply were not fulfilled here, and invariably, this early in the days at the house, there are bound to be some stumbles. The good here Outweighed the bad, Marginally. More work is yet to be done. I am not a Fan of Nicholas Ghesquiere, Probably never will be, but with this house he does have the tools to keep me at the least interested... Much more than I can say for his work at Balenciaga!