So, Marco Zanini is Out. The Design Team for the moment is In. Maybe Heidi Klum IS Right!? As of writing this, Another Switcheroo "Project Runway" You're Either In or You're Out Moment has occurred. This time, it's Bertrand Guyon who is In. But, at the time of this show, he wouldn't be making an appearance until the July Couture... which has already passed, Yet, a later date for all that!
Right now the focus is on what the Design team achieved after Zanini's Abrupt departure. And it isn't at all Bad. Truth be told, it just looks like what Zanini would have done had he tamed his wilder urges. It had the Wit, the Playfulness, the Surrealist elements, It had all that a Schiaparelli show should have and it had it in quite lovely form! The Shocking Pink Runway and Mylar walls which Reverberated with the voices of the Choir Les Cherubins singing a song to Ravel's "Bolero" Kind of set the Mood for something... Exotic!
Since there were only 21 exits, and in any collection there are bound to be some pieces that are not writing about even though they're perfectly lovely, I am not though going to do a Blow-by-Blow, I will touch on the Highlights and let History make of the rest what it may. The Design team showed Flattering skill with cutting the clothes, they did fit Impeccably well, especially the pieces draped in back into a Gigantic Bow... Most Notably the Finale Jacket-cum-Bride in Crushed Gold Lame draped into a Bow and Train and back and Miles and Miles of the models Gorgeous Chocolaty Gams!
A Navy Pantsuit also had this adornment and looked as if it had had Nasty dust-up with some Straight pins (A recurring Motif) It lent just a slight air of the Sinister to this other pieces in the collection. The suit however, was Fantastic. So was the Saddle Leather Coat/Dress that had the bow done out of a Huge Swath of the same colour leather but had been Worked with Cutouts and Trapunto stitching to create Hearts in the Bow/Sash. It was pretty much, Stunning!
Two outfits in Green were the best in the whole show... A Gorgeous Scarf neck Hand and Ribbon print Lime Green gown on the Exquisite Josephine Le Tutour was Sublime and Wacky, while Exit No. 11 on Shu Pei Qin... Simply Smashing! A subtly printed dark Leaf Green sheath was made to look as if the model was wearing a Spectacular Diamond necklace in the Shape of Stars but was Trompe L'oeil and when the Shu Pei turned to show the back, it looked as if the necklace was either in the midst of being put on, or taken off by a pair of Embroidered Phantom hands. Again, Slightly Sinister tinged, but Thoroughly Wondrous!
So, Another Great collection in the Rebirth of the Schiaparelli Maison. Hopefully Guyon will have the patience and be given the time to turn this house around and keep it on the Couture Schedule and Eventually the Ready-to-Wear one as well... It's a house with a Magnificently rich history to Plunder and Reinvent. The Time has to be taken to Mine those Riches Properly! Let's Hope Guyon is in it for the Long Haul!