Wednesday, July 1, 2015


Thurs. 09/25/2014.

The 125th Anniversary of the house of Lanvin put it's Designer, Alber Elbaz, in something of a Contemplative mood... It encouraged him to consider his own work at the house and the archival work of the house creator, Jeanne Lanvin. So, he began by looking back on his history with the Storied and Oldest French Fashion house, and that entailed also, bringing back some of his former Model friends from days of Ye Olde. Like Amber Valetta, Kirsten Owen, Esther De Jong, Audrey Marnay who were peppered in with the more Current faces like Edie Campbell and Binx Walton, It led perhaps an Unintentional air of Gravitas to the proceedings. But, Elbaz was so sublimely focused on Languid, Liquid ease that such magnitude gave the limpid clothes much needed heft as to instill a Spine to the collection, make it less Wafty and Wan than it might have actually been!

Ease, However, is something that is entirely welcome, and the opening Jersey sheaths were the embodiment of Luxurious and Louche Langour. Elbaz threw in a few sleeker, more Chiseled, Sinewy pieces in the opening exits to be sure that the collection didn't exactly take Flight on gossamer wing with all that Fluidity. It was an impressive display. Especially a Surprisingly Crisp, yet Supple Parchment coloured Trench on Audrey Marnay that was equal parts Tough and Gentle. It was a Superior piece in the collection.

In Elbaz's thoughtful consideration of days and fashion past, he focused his piercing gaze and came up with a collection that was as much a Dynamic Synthesis of his work as it was a progression of that said same work. In some ways, the collection fell into the trap of any kind of retrospection, it hearkened back so much that it became too familiar to older creations. Yet, when Elbaz struck gold, It was a particularly Rich and Fruitful vein. The entire whole of the Section from Exit No. 21 to Exit No. 31 was some of the most Excruciatingly Lovely fashion seen this season! The Voluminous Black Jumpsuit on Esther de Jong was a Dramatic work of Sheer Brilliance, while the Purity and Simple richesse of a Floating White blouse and Black trapeze skirt at Exit No. 21 was Ethereal enough to bring tears to the eye!

Alber Elbaz decided to take a trip down memory lane to invigorate the current moment, As always with such a Gambit, it could have been perilous and fraught with disaster, Fortunately, Elbaz is no Sentimentalist, and even though he has the Soul of a Romantic, he has the steely will of a dictator to not let himself get carried away with Nostalgic lingerings in the past. Pair those halves together and you get the Exuberant showing that had not one whit of wallowing in reminiscing, It was Powerful, Modern, Sensual, Desirous and most importantly, Current. Looking to the past may actually helped Elbaz create a more interesting Future!

That's All.


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