Thursday, July 2, 2015

Haider Ackerman.

Sat. 09/27/2014.

A Subtler and more Ethereal mood suffused the Haider Ackermann Spring 2015 collection, due in large part to the Powdery, Dusty Pastel colour palette and a loosened up approach to Ackermann's usual Modus Operandi. Whatever the intention of this lightening up was supposed to be, fell unfortunately flat due to some Convoluted styling and Over design of some pieces. 

Ackermann was in Prime form though when he was in reductionist mode, The simpler he kept things, the more beautiful the result. It helped more when Ackermann did not rely on his more familiar tropes, Yet those familiar Lengthy layers and Fluid shapes were yielded in this collection in some of the best configurations of Ackermann's Career, Like the Exquisite Mauve Jumpsuit with the floor length Mantle Trench surmounting it.

But it was when Ackermann explored New Vistas that he really hit the richest Pay Dirt. The most Dynamic outfits were stripped bare to their bones and exalted the principles of Design and Cut. Examples of the best offerings, An Ensemble in all White on Sasha Luss comprising a Sweater and Pants with a Gossamer topper, or the Unembellished Pantsuit in A dusky shade of Quartz that was Perfection walking! Counterbalanced against the more extrovert efforts in Ruching, Layering and Ruffling, those pieces failed on all levels, mostly because that they were incredibly Tortured and Unflattering. 

Ackermann proved he is capable of moving along the dialogue of his clothes and progressing his ideas in new and exciting ways, he just needs to concentrate more the purity of his aesthetic and less on tricks. When he gets that Down Pat... He'll recognize his fullest Potential! 

That's All.


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