Zuhair Murad Haute Couture.
So, the end of the Couture season sits squarely on Zuhair Murad's Shoulder... and if his work is any indication, those shoulders are Crystal bead and sequin Encrusted with a Generous shagging over of Marabou or Ostrich feathers and then Sprinkled with Dewdrops of Pearls! In other words... Outrageously Overdone! As his collections tend to be. I level the same withering charges against him that I do his Lebanese Partner In Crime, Elie Saab. They both provide a Saccharinely Sweet, Syurpy Mess of Feathers and Beads and Trains and Crystals... and so on that their collections are One, Inherently compatible to each other, they seem to share a Psychic bond, because each season they look like they just designed one collection, split it half and call it Different shows! Two. The Richness and Glut of Sparkle and the Confectionery element of their collections reaches a Maximum Overload quickly because there is no RELIEF from all the Bedazzled Glitz and at Saab that ranged over 60+ Outfits, Mercifully Murad kept it nearer to 50 Which was STILL TOO FUCKING MUCH!
As with Saab... It's not that the Clothes aren't Exquisite. They are! But It's again like Having Cake for Dinner, Then Pie for Dessert, and Cookies for a Snack! You marginalize the Exquisite nature of some of the pieces when you only have like styled pieces to judge them against! Here, Murad for Spring 2015, was inspired by Water, and the Liquidity and Undulating quality of many of the pieces and the Frothy colours Hit home for the theme. As with Saab, There are some Standout Stunners, Exit No. 16 was one. An Achingly Beautiful Gown of Lemon Chiffon tulle encrusted with Sequin and Crystal bead flowers looked Serious, but Effortless and of course, Gorgeous! A Strapless Sea Blue creation studded with Beads and Crystals and Sequins with a Dramatic Operatically Sweeping Waterfall "Watteau" Back was Grand and Exquisite!
Still, They would have been even more Markedly Entrancing had there been something to Counterpoint their richness so that when they did arrive... It would be more Breath Catching than being one in a Lineup of many samey-same pieces. Murad has Great talent and as he modernizes and sweeps some of the even more Grandiose Gestures aside that used to inflect his work, His collections become far more Palatable... The only Sad part is, That the Palate in question, that of the Viewer, is in such Sugar Shock after one of his shows, that you might come away from it with Diabetes! And in that mien, Murad might want to start giving out Hypos of Insulin at his shows... Oh and Elie would be well advised to do the Same!