Fall 2015 turned out to be one of the most Momentous occasions for the Design Dynamic Duo that is Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra. Of the many reasons why, One was that this was the first time of them showing at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Venue, Lincoln Center. The two designers have been staples of the NYFW scene for a Decade and have if not Quietly, They have Discreetly become Lions of Seventh Ave. (Or more appropriately, Bears! I know they're gonna roll their eyes, But I adore these two, So, ROLL ON, Guys! LOL!) even though they have their home in Brooklyn, which has kinda also got to give Jeffrey and Robert some props for having a big hand in transforming it into the New Hip Hub of New York and much of the Manhattan Migration to it's environs.
Second. This was without peer, one of the Absolute Finest collections the gentleman have designed. For the last couple seasons Costello and Tagliapietra have been looking to themselves, Sartorially speaking, for inspiration while also having an overarching theme attached to that introspection. This Fall the Theme was the Colour Palette of the Woods where they take their Adorable Little one, their Handsome Bulldog Eugene, on walks and that they themselves just stroll and traverse for Peace and Quiet. This Leitmotif came through Loud and Clear from Exit One! The opening of the show, an Exquisite Three-piece Herringbone Spruce Green ensemble comprising a Cropped, wide sleeve and collar jacket, Vest and some of the most Enviably cut trousers on the planet was as Forest inspired as anything could ever dream of being! Underneath this peeked out a Plaid shirt on the model that wasn't really what it seemed, it was Chiffon which had been Meticulously Hand-Stitch Embroidered in a Plaid Pattern. It was one of the most Subtle and Masterful tropes the Duo has ever produced and was a Smashing play on their own Signature wardrobe Staple, the Plaid Flannel Shirt!
This would appear again throughout the collection and was always welcome, as would The Costello/Tagliapietra Wardrobe items of Suspenders and Cardigans. The suspenders were an Exceptionally Offhandedly chic and tough touch to the collection, lending a bit of Backbone to the designers usually Feminine and Liquid designs, Even tougher still when paired with Sharp Flannel Trousers and Buttoned-to-the-neck Shirts. Yet, those Shirts had a hidden Femme aspect to them. Delicate, almost Imperceptible Shimmering Beading and Embroidery on the front which Softened the edge just enough to keep it from being too Rugged,
Softer still, when the Suspenders were paired with Swingy Satin Dirndl skirts. A New and Fresh style to be embraced by Jeffery and Robert. But fret not, Loyalists... The Silky, Languid, Satiny Drape of Costello and Tagliapietra was well evidenced this day too! Their woman had some of the Best of the Bunch to pick from... A Mineral Green Cap-sleeve number Drove me CRAZY it was so Fabulous with its Side Pockets and Faux Capelet top. She could also feel much Desire for one of the Closing Bi-color (Front to Back) Satin Jersey Numbers in Stone and Pale Yellow Citrine. Or the Best of the bunch... The wholly Haute Couture grade Draped Mulberry Cap-sleeve dress at Exit No. 12, with it's Plunging V-back and little Pleated Petal flourish in front... It was obvious by a Country Mile that the Designers had Outdone themselves to a Substantial degree with this Masterpiece!
Before I Slip into a Prolixity that minimizes the Impact of the greatness of this collection, I do have to mention the Raised Bar of Sophistication evinced in this show. The Pair of Wrap Jacket Pantsuits were Channeling a Blass-like Hauteur, while the Quiet Grandeur of an A-Line Bi-Colour top and Trousers in Umber and Raisin exemplified Restrained Chic to the Letter and would have made Good Ol' Cristobal Proud!
At the time of writing this, it is well known and should be well mentioned, That the day after this show, A day that saw, Coach's Power Presentation and Kanye's Megawatt Adidas Ego Extravaganza... None less than the NEW YORK TIMES Placed Jeffrey and Robert's Collection FRONT PAGE, Right below the Masthead as the Signifier of the kicking off of Fashion Week in NY. Now, I don't know about you... but that's some pretty Impressive Swag to be able to Bandy about!
All I can say is, It was High Time for it! The Bears have been doing their Elegant and Eloquent thing for over a decade now with Quiet Grace and Selflessness, And all the Lauding and Accolades that can be thrown at their Booted feet, are all More than well deserved! Here's to Many more Decades of Design from Jeffrey and Robert!
Congratulations, Mi Amici!