Valentino Haute Couture.
This is SPRING 2015 Couture... Correct? Printemps? Primavera? Fruhling??? Because viewing Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri's Valentino Haute Couture collection one would not at all be faulted for thinking it was Fall/Winter Couture! As Typically Crafty and Ornate as is Dogmatically common for the house, this collection had a Crushing Weightiness to it that Severely undercut the Beauty of the collection! Why all the High necks, and Shearling Pencil Skirts and Heavy Suffocating fabrics... AND OXBLOOD? Head to Toe? FOR SPRING? Yeah, That's gonna be A NO! EVEN if the Weighty fabrics were in reality, Gauzy and Light... they looked nothing like what they may have felt like. Throw in that always Thistledown Light fabric, Velvet... and you have a collection that failed on multiple levels.
On the positive side, the expected Laborious Embroidery work of the house was as always, Beyond Belief. Yet this time out they were Curiously applied to Shearling and a Heavy Burlap looking Linen. If it was meant to evoke, "Rustic" what it equated to was Misguided! They had such a Plodding Ungainliness to them, that it just looked Silly rather than Quirky.
Whereas there was much to Gasp over and Enjoy here, this collection qualified as a Miss on a Grand Scale. From the Same, Pesante Princess evening wear that they keep turning out Endless repetitions of, to the Lumbering Coats and Gothically dense Embroideries, to the Utterly befuddling Sheer boned corsets with those swelling Heavy Fabric skirts... WHAT? It just didn't compute.When they hit the Mother Lode, Well, Hell's Bells! It was a Thing of Beauty, Though we have seen this type of Beauty from them for many a Season now. It's growing Common and Exorbitantly Tedious!
A few pieces stood out to Comment in the Positive on, that Black Pearl coloured Sleeveless Velvet gown (yeah Velvet, Funny, No?) on Irina Kravchenko was STELLAR for the fact that it was So Purely Elegant and Refined of cut! As well as Exit No. 30 A Lace and Chiffon Embroidered DREAM in Ecru and Eau De Nil. Include a few other sundry outfits in this category and it wasn't all bad, but it surely was much less than Good! Confusing would be the watchword of the Hour... It made so little sense and felt like Chiuri and Piccioli were So Blindly satisfied with what they made they had no Objectivity or Distance on it, Not their Best work by any standards... and woefully so, they seem to be stuck in a Loop and keep up these Gothic, Victorian Fantasias that are growing Wearisome in the Utmost. Change the Record, Guys. The Song is getting Old!