Yohji Yamamoto occupies a space in the Fashion lexicon somewhere right around Stupefying and Masterful. His clothes and ideas about clothes are by no stretch of the imagination, easy to digest. His Spring 2015 collection proves this with flying colours. He is Part Intellectual, Part Mad Scientist, Part Unassailable Romantic. That's one helluva Trifecta.
Spring 2015 was one of Yamamoto's Most Compellingly Distracting collections seen in recent memory, for the simple reason alone, that Yamamoto took to dissecting the politics of Sex, the Feminine Body and Sensuality. It was a Contentious proposal, Simultaneously Evoking ripened Sexuality and Delicate Fragility in equal measurements! As much skin as was being shown, the collection remained Quite Innocent, Chaste almost. These were not Wanton flashings of Flesh, It was a Strategic Tease!
What made it so Scintillating was that the clothes seemed to be revealing skin as if it was Accidental, Unplanned and completely Happenstance, in that way there was a Spontaneity and Unfettered quality to the approach. The Girls seem to be just caught in a Twisting whirlwind of fabric and it just so happened to alight here and there and collapse itself onto the Female form and stick and that was the Garment! As it evolved, this Aura of the Impromptu became ever more Fascinating, even in the outright complexities of the work that was used to achieve such simplistic looking clothes!
Yohji's Art is that you, The Viewer, are drawn into his Cuckoo Wonderland, as if pulled through the Looking Glass, and you're Transported AND Transformed. One cannot help but be Beguiled by the proceedings, and if this was Yamamoto's Argument and Gambit for "Sexy" it was the most thoughtful diatribe one has ever seen put forth on the subject! Yohji got the idea just right by injecting the element that most designers trip over and disregard, That to get Sexy to be less about The Fuck and more about the Suggestive, There has to be Romance interpolated into the equation, Yamamoto sang that song with the Eloquence and Expertise of Leontyne Price here!
Frankly, if one wants to discuss the clothes, then yes, there were some Electrifyingly beautiful pieces... a Pantsuit cut from the most limpid Devore Silk Velvet, A Mustard Gold Zip-front Anorak, A Fuss-Free Stark, supple Ankle-length Skirt suit that was Divinely Tailored in Black... And other pieces... But discussing the clothes as individual pieces is like Listening to the Mahler 8th and discussing only the playing of the 17th Violinist in from the Left! It's the Magnificent WHOLE that constitutes the Magic, the pieces and parts are Bees in a Hive, working together to make the entire thing Hum as one!
Fittingly enough, Yamamoto may have offered the clearest insight into his own mindset as well with his positing about his the collection, "Showing the body is Very Delicate, When you show too Much, it becomes Nothing!" Mind Numbingly Simple and Precise, But Earth Shatteringly Profound as well. Very much like Yohji's Clothes, Wouldn't you agree?!?