As far as Debuts go. David Koma's coming out at the house of Mugler was a So-So Affair. Koma admitted to being a Fanatic lover of all things Vintage Thierry and used to tape the Flashbacks of his fashion shows when he was a lad, But that diligent respect may have choked Koma somewhat in the Creative side of the equation. The collection he presented for Spring 2015 got the Sleek, Sexy nature of Mugler's vocabulary right, but he struggled with reconciling his own Vernacular with that of the house and the distillation of the separate hemispheres did not thoroughly coalesce.
With miles of Sexy skin on display and some Seriously Sharp Tailoring (if it's one thing all those whom have tried to breathe new life into the house that "Angel" Built, the one thing most all of them forgot was how SUPERIOR a Tailor Thierry was, He could sculpt a suit like it was an extension of the woman's own form!) which are both Hallmarks of the brand, Koma has got that Part down pat! And although truly NO ONE was hoping for a rehash of the more Outre and Demonstrative of Mugler's past glories... at some point, if he continues on... that Elephant is going to HAVE to be addressed, and Modernized, by Koma.
Although there was nothing so Dastardly as to make the collection suffer, it more than anything simply felt Half-Hearted. Koma gave it a BIG Go in the Short, Sleek, Strong area, but it was patently obvious that he was holding back, lest he fear his stronger inclinations take hold and he loose the reins too early. There were clunky moments to be had as well, and Koma should NEVER try to do Boxy, those pieces that he did offer in more forgiving cuts, looked about as desirable as a Punch to the Face by Mike Tyson!
Koma is far too talented a designer to not live up to the potential Firestorm of Ferocity that his appointment at Mugler can yield, Today, there was hesitancy, Yes, but flashes and glimpses of the Spirit and Design that can move Mugler into a New Future... Koma needs to Get a little "Wong Foo" in his work Next time and he'll hit the ball outta the park... Step Forth. Larger than Life is Just the Right Size!
That's what Mugler is all about, Anyway, Ain't It?!