While not every aspect or idea in Phillip Lim's Punk and Grunge influenced Fall 2015 collection worked out for the best, on the whole, the collection was a Strong and Inspired one for the designer filled with Excellent Sportswear for the Urban Fashionista. There was a definite Tough flavour to the clothes, one made more for Downtown in the Bowery than Uptown on 5th Ave, though recontextualized into the Uptown Lexicon with different pieces it would fit in.
Lim offered up Blanket Checks as his only conceit really to print and kept the rest of the collection confined to Dark, Rich tones and Neutrals on both sides of the coin, Light and Dark. This lent something of a Bleak Chic appeal to the clothes that as the show progressed became more and more welcome. When Lim was on the mark, the clothes were fully appealing and finely honed, Especially Evident in a Charcoal Gabardine Pantsuit and it's counterpart in a short Slim Coat.
The Harnesses and Straps that Lim employed on an oft repeated Asymmetric apron "Skirt" as he called it, and in Chest straps became quite labored by the end of the show and could have been done away with in a number of Outfits, also the issue of an Unflattering bulkiness was popping up in some pieces, it was distracting, Yes, yet did it ruin the overall mood of things, Not really. It just felt as if Lim could have had a more Scrupulous eye on those pieces.
All told though, it was a Highly successful showing from Lim and had a very individualistic and compelling style of it's own. Lim's collection offered a new proposition to the Fashion conversation and for the most part, offered it quite compellingly! Lim should keep on this pace and keep giving us new things to think about on what Fashion is!