There is something to be said for knowing one's audience and consistently pleasing that audience by giving them what they want, Anna Sui is one of those designers, little variation from season to season, but her clientele seem to be Blissfully Happy with this Homogeny. Nicole Miller fills that bill too, every season we can pretty much expect a similar offering of good clothes, but nothing that's going to make the covers of Papers or Websites anymore. For Fall 2015, Miller threw her customers something of a Curveball, going in a new-ish direction and on the surface, experimenting a tad. Though as is oft the case, dig below the surface and you'll find the same iterations as per usual.
Miller was getting her version of Gothic on with inspiration culled from the Illustrations of Folkloric Myth and Fairy Tale books, Something in the Vein of Tolkein and his brethren. This gave life to a very Disorienting and In all Due Honesty, Drab and Off-Kilter color palette. It wasn't Upbeat or Inspiring, Quite the opposite, it truly was Unpleasant. The Prints and Embellishments did nothing to highlight these Morose colours either, they only assisted in making them more unflattering and depressive.
By the time the show was a 1/3 of the way in, then only did we see the Characteristic Miller signatures and the Colours began to sway more towards positive, though still Darker shades, Burnt Ocher, Black, and a Glorious shade of Forest Green. A Black Blazer and Leather pants combo was a Hefty One-Two Punch that was a Knockout as was the aforementioned Green colour used in a Whimsically embroidered gown that was channeling the Renaissance for The Real World. The Finale gown had a true Couture touch to it that was Surprising, but entirely welcome and served as a foil for the Atypically Ugly Iridescent Velvet dresses with strange, wavy necklines, and more Garishly, the patchwork Metallic pieces that were complimenting Nothing and No One!
In the schema of things, Miller had enough pieces in here to make her loyalists eyes gleam with Desire and be intrigued to incorporate some of the new pieces and give them a go and see what sticks. As a Whole, this collection did not make the Grade. Too much of it was Oddly, Inexplicably, Repulsing. The clothes themselves were fine, but the prints and colours used were an Inexcusable Cataclysm of the Unpleasant. There's always Next Semester!