Continuing to refine their aesthetic over the last couple seasons, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow have fully stepped into their roles as Womenwear designers and embraced it quite Wholeheartedly. Fall 2015 saw them pushing themselves further and with more conviction than ever for their label Public School. It's an Exciting thing to watch their Evolution and Transitioning into the realms of Women's Ready-To-Wear when they started out as the Cool, Hip, New League, Urban Men's Designers. Their Woman fits the same bill.
For Fall, Osborne and Chow were thinking back to the 90's (Who Isn't this season?) and how the worlds of Hip-Hop and House were changing and transmuting back in those days, How as Osborne said, "Dance Style and Personal Style, and how those two things informed each other" this translated into the clothes as something of a Urban Nomad in the affect of the clothes, it also in some weird way, linked into the early work of Haider Ackermann with it's Long, Fluid, Liquid layering. It was a proposition full of Possibility and Risk, it could have been seen as just Drab and Muted and Woebegone. But it came across as Electric and Fascinating.
As always, there is a Futurist feeling here that pays its dues in no small part to the Japanese designers of the early 80's (Kawakubo, Yamamoto, Miyake) and to the Apocalyptic sensibilities of Rick Owens, An intriguing Admixture to say the least, but it was done here in a Fashion that spoke solely to the minds of Osborne and Chow. This combination was focused through the Prism of how in the Modern Urban sense of fashion, Sportif Utility wear is spliced everyday with more Refined pieces, That was the Schematic of dressing that was presented here. A Puffer Vest worn with a Brushstroke Digital print top and layered over a Dress shirt with an elongated back Shirttail and paired with Perfectly Charcoal Trousers had the Urban Survivalist idea well in Hand, While a Iron Grey Bathrobe Coat, Calf-length Plaid "Shirt" and Sweatsuit Leggings combined to Strike that City Nomad Chord with Perfect Pitch!
While all this was Exceptionally Intriguing and Entrancing, it has to be said that when the Duo scaled back the notes and presented a barer Melody, the clothes worked even more so, for the Men and the Women. Sometimes, there was just too many things and ideas jumbled in to one Exit to make for Visual efficiency. It may be Osborne and Chow's "Thing" but when they did rein in the elements, the song sounded so much sweeter... As in the Simple Marvellousness of a Superbly cut Black blazer paired with a Fluid Leather front side-slit dress Pleated dress that was Easily contending for "Best In Show" or the Striking combination of one of their Elongated Dress shirts, this one in White, paired with a Black Topcoat that was the Cleanest, Leanest, Meanest and Baddest outfit in the whole show simply for the fact that it was Minimal and Luxurious while not suffering from Visual Overload. It was as Direct as an Arrow to the Heart.
Osborne and Chow have shown up in a Big Way in a Short time and are on the Shortest of Short lists as the New Darlings of 7th Ave. They have all the goods to make due on the promise seen in them by the Fashion Gods, they have a Unique and Singular Aesthetic that they have Honed and are Perfecting with each new collection that they send out, and they produce clothes that Speak to the Modern, Urban, Hip Woman, Young and Mature alike, and that that Woman wants to wear! That's a Fashion Triple Crown as Worthy in Stature of the Belmont, Preakness and Kentucky Derby! Just Call them American Pharoahs!