Sunday, August 30, 2015

Gareth Pugh.

Sat. 02/21/2015.

Perhaps it was that Gareth Pugh's Fall 2015 collection was All Black with those Positively Unsettling Red Crosses painted on the faces of the models... Perhaps it was because there was something that was quite a bit too literally Sacerdotal and Religious about the look of some of the pieces and partnered with the Spiky Jeanne D'Arc Hairdo, Pugh's collection came across more than a little bit Sinister. Add to that an unshakable Clive Barker "Hellraiser" Cenobite allusion and you have for one Unsettling Goddamn show!

Pugh, in the tradition of one of the greatest students to come from Central Saint Martins (of which Pugh graduated as well), the Irreplaceable Lee Alexander McQueen, has a fascination with the Darker aspects of Fashion. Pugh's may be more, Poetic and less Grotesque, but he is not unwilling to travel those Pathways. Fall 2015's preoccupation was a Warriores, the Video before the show gave ample evidence to this Theorem as model Amyline Valade embodied a woman Possessed and so enthralled, began hacking her long Platinum locks off and then Orgasmically painting herself in the Scottish Woad tradition, except this time it was the Blood Red, as if from some Sacrificial Victim to this Ritual! Pugh did say that his Emotional starting point was the idea of someone "Sacrificing Yourself to something bigger than You are!" Loaded words indeed!

What was more readily evident than anything, perhaps other than the inherent Drama of the clothes, was Equally, how Amazingly wearable the collection was and how skilled Pugh is as a Tailor. Coupling those two elements together produced not only Memorable clothes, but pieces that shook you to your core. Yes, the Showpieces were there, the ones that catch the breath in the chest, and also are either completely Unwearable in Modern day life or only wearable by the most Daring of Fashionistas! Within all that, However, the wearable clothes stood out the most for the reason that they were so Awing in their Brilliance. Look at the way he handled a recurring motif of Lacquer Slick looking Black Plastic drinking Straws, that when conglomerated tightly together on a Wide Sheath dress/Sweater, they had the glow and look of the Finest Sable.

Mentioning those Straws, they added a Prickly and Dangerous edge to this collection, they made whatever they were incorporated into, look Treacherous, Untouchable, and just a little bit Unnerving! Shown alongside the Angular Leather bodices and Strict Militant as well as Penitent coats they poised a Intricate Dichotomy to the viewer on how the Religious Restraint half of the collection and War-Like Extroversion other half, could Congregate harmoniously! It was never an easy integration, but Pugh found the way and Exploited it so Adroitly one could not began to fathom why they would have thought the combination Incompatible!

Pugh is one of those Designers that the winds of fashion will always Follow, Not the other way round. His work is an Admixture of the Disconcerting and Discomfitting to the point of Perturbance with things so Incandescently Transcendent that you feel as if you are in the Grip of Spiritual Rapture! This collection was the Apotheosis of that Ideal and Pugh hit the Nerve so soundly, that it registered through not only one's entire Body, But their entire BEING! A Rare happening, To be Sure!

That's All.


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