Outstanding! Francisco Costa's Fall 2015 Calvin Klein Collection show was a Smash Hit! One of the best of his career and definitely in contention for Best of Season. It was so Clean and Minimal. Tough and Luxe! It was Flat Out, Perfect! I tried and couldn't find anything to fault in the collection in which Costa was going back to the 60's for a 2010's kind of Austere Restrained Maximalism! "Venus In Furs" by the Velvet Underground was the touchstone of the collection and Definitely, Nico was firmly in top position, Inspiration wise.
But barring all associations to the past and Ignoring them as such, the collection was not Costume-y or Atavistic. In all honesty, what was achieved here could ONLY have been accomplished in the Here and Now. The Technical wizardry of this collection was IMMENSE! Costa took to Horizontal seaming to created a sort of Striped Patchwork of Pony skin, Shearling, Suede, Leather, Fur... Hardly any Fabrics, Outside of Knits, were used in the collection and even those that were, were treated to look like Leather, Suede and Fur!
Costa got the Vibe just right and made his Models look Long, Lithe and Endlessly Lean. The opening set of Coats were Covetous on the Grandest of scales and should cause women to Fight over them when they appear in the shops, and an especially KILLER one was on Tami Williams in a Zinc Green Pony that was Skinny Personified! Exit No. 22 was also Slaying it from Left to Right like a Boss, A short Pony A-line coat with a Huge Grommet closure and one Leather Patch pocket in all in Black!
Ending the show were a Series of the Slinkiest and Slenderest frayed edge Knit Midi "Gowns" with Leather detailing that again reached it's apotheosis on Tami Williams in a Sleeveless version that simply Undulated! However, Costa took the Extravagant route for his Finale Trio, Calf hair Tunic Gowns that were concocted out of Geometric chips of the fabric that was then linked to each other with small studs to create a Mesh that was Lightweight but still carried within it Extraordinary Gravitas!
Costa Showed that he can Make the kind of collections that will have you Swooning like a Courtesan in the 18th Century in search of a Fainting Couch! This collection had everything that a Woman will want and NEED for Fall 2015 and Beyond. It was a Collection of Startling Magnitude and Insane Style! It's one of those collections that you won't soon forget!