Tuesday, August 18, 2015


Weds. 02/18/2015.

Does Anyone else get the distinct Deja Vu impression of Narciso Rodriguez's Halcyon days At Cerruti back in the 90's when they look at Jason Wu's Hugo Boss collections? Is it just me? Whatever! With some Glowing moments of Purest Perfection to be had, Wu's work for Boss for Fall 2015 is still Fraught with Inconsistencies and Miscalculations. It appears, for the most part, that Wu is Applying himself far too stringently to an Inorganic and Unnatural Rhythm at the house and putting too much effort into things that don't really come naturally to him, Forcing the Square peg into the Round Hole, So to speak. It leaves a taste of the Anomalous on the palate and Quite Surprisingly, Worry! 

Wu hasn't, by any stretch of the Imagination, settled into the Furrow of what IS Wu and Boss combined. More pointedly, He seems to be trying to conform his ideas into the Boss Mould and the Unnaturalness of it all comes Ringing through with Clarion Like Precision! Wu, whom with his own designs, seemed to spring forth, Fully formed and Secure in what he was doing from Day One, has yet to find the way to integrate what HE is into what BOSS is and make it a Satisfactory Merging. Fall found Wu, Sadly to say, Floundering once more. With no real clearly defined direction to be seen, the collection had a Wobbly nature to it that left the viewer Ill at Ease!

The opening section inn Charcoal and Orange held promise and had a deeply Graphic appeal that was easy to like and wear, The Modernity of this section should have informed the entire show, but Wu began to Trick out a lot of pieces with Extraneous elements that would have been better left in a Showroom or excised entirely. Simple things were swagged with fussy details and overly elaborate cuts and Curves that might have been seen as to emphasize a Feminine shape, unfortunately they worked against this idea and made the models look Bulbous and Lumpen. Streamlining and TRULY Simplifying things yielded far better results. A Slender Shortened Slip cum Column dress in Black with a front panel of Silvery Black Bugle beads was so Hot it Sizzled (Julia Bergshoeff looked every Inch a Goddess in it!) and in comparison, should have ended the show rather than the Awkward Metal Beaded Slip dress on Julia van Os That did!

Also well worth mentioning, The Uber-Sleek Melange Grey Jacket-Coat and Pants ensemble that was vying for Season's Best outfit without doubt! A Fantastic Coat in Black on Julia Nobis at Exit No. 10 was giving many reasons to get all Het Up over! I don't want to communicate the idea that the collection was Bad. It was not. It just felt like there was a Disconnection going on internally with Wu. That he's trying to make Boss into something that doesn't come innately Natural to him and in some way, he's suppressing that Vital element that makes his work so Damnably Good!

Wu simply needs to let go of the concerns of what He should be for Boss and just... BE! It's always a Tough thing to Fuse one's own Design DNA into a well established House, There will be Missteps and Less than successful moments, But the time is now for Wu to just Step Forth, and do what he KNOWS he can do and let that speak. It's the best recipes that always have the Spirit of the Chef Coursing through them!

That's All.


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