Sir Paul Smith is always a designer that is going to weigh in on the Masculine/Feminine debate with a collection that collocates these ideas into a tonal whole rather than a Discordant Atonal mess. Fall 2015 saw him take no break from his Comparing and Contrasting of these two Poles of Fashion, and as usual he arrived at some brilliant conclusions. One of the most Potent things to arise from this collection, Intended or Not, if Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski decides to leave Hermes at any point Near or Far in the future, with this collection, Sir Paul proved he can handle the job! This outing rang so much of the Hermes way of doing things, that it was quite scary, Yet it retained that most essential of elements, it looked like PAUL SMITH doing Hermes... so make of that what you will, but I could hardly envision anyone more capable than Smith of doing that job... if that need should ever present itself!
Smith's show had all the things we come to Know and Love about him, The English-ness of it all, the Amazing Tailoring, the Arch sense of Elegance, Yet for Smith, this collection found him far more Understated and reined in than usual and in this instance, it worked Incredibly well. There was a Soberness of Attitude that gave off that "Stiff Upper Lip" British persona mixed with just the right amount of Kookiness, in this instance though the Kook was kept to the barest of minimums. In fact, Everything in this collection was done with such a Masterfully Minimalist hand that the clothes shone through with no Outwardly apparent trickery or ornamentation! The Power here lay in the Inherent Class the clothes exuded.
From Beautifully Rugged Shearlings that would work on the Chilliest of days along the coast in Cornwall to the Pinstripe Proper Pantsuit that would be the envy of any Saville Row Tailor worth his Scissors, or the Blokish appeal of a Fuzzy Jacket over a Working class Jumpsuit elevated to Luxury Class! So Very much of this collection was of such a Superior Nature that it is the most Haranguing of tasks to pick the pieces that made the most deep impressions, for they pretty much all did! Smith did a Peerless job in crafting this Breathtakingly Extraordinary Collection that he must be Heartily applauded! Cheers, Mate!