A Puzzling Affair, to be sure. Massimo Nicosia has been tasked with Updating and Freshening the look of the Two Centuries old Scottish Knitwear house, Pringle. Fall 2015 came across as a definite Step Back for the Nicosia, who has been taking a more careful and paced approach to modernization. While Nicosia's previous collections thus far, have taken Painstakingly slow steps to Progress, they have progressed. Fall saw Nicosia adopt a Mumsy approach that teetered into Gram-ish territory, Even with Sheerness and Lace skirts, the collection felt Weighty and Frumpy. One hesitates to say Dowdy, but it's applicable here as well.
The life felt drained from this collection as if it were on the Embalming Table, and it wasn't the fault of the clothes, taken apart and seen separately, they had loads of Appeal, Flocked Devore Velvets, Artistic Appliques on Astrakhan, an oversized Macrame Guipure Lace. Intricately Cable Knit Patterned Shaved Mink... There was much to delight in, just the way the elements were put together were their ultimate Undoing. Nothing felt as if it were of this moment, and worse off, it felt like it was of a few seasons past, and well past it's prime! We've seen these arrangements before, and Better and to see them now when the thing that should be the Utmost Forefront in Nicosia's mind is pushing Ahead, was disheartening.
This won't break Pringle and will keep them Afloat without worry, but Come Spring, Nicosia needs to make sure he's designing for the Now, the Today, He'd do himself one better even, if he designed for the Future!